Desert Equine Balance

Pilatus Jet Equine Connection by Hans Erni   Environmentally Conscious New Model Launch - 24 Horse Hitch You can download high resolution copies at  https://www.pilatus-aircraft.com/en/image/594cd90990f2e https://www.pilatus-aircraft.com/en/downloads#pictures/pictures-media-releases... [Read more]

The fall issue of the UCDavis Horse Report is out.   This issue is focused on Equine Biosecurity, including: How infectious diseases spread The role of asymptomatic (subclinical) carriers as sources of infectious disease Common equine pathogens to keep on your radar Quick reference guides to keep your horse healthy at home and away from home 10 Things You Might Not Know About Equine Biosecurity And more!... [Read more]

Bad holiday décor choices by equine owners can truly become a matter of life or death. (It's nothing to horse around with.) Nov 16, 2016 By Lynn Hovda, RPH, DVM, MS, DACVIM, Pet Poison Helpline staff Pet Poison Helpline Everyone loves the decorations and lights associated with the holiday season, and most horse people are anxious to share them with their equine friends. Generally this occurs without problems, but to guarantee a safe holiday season a few items should be avoided when decorating barns or sharing food and treats. Peruse these holiday cautions on items that should be used carefully or not at all around horses. Live greens such as pines and spruce boughs are generally safe when used in wreathes or garlands but should not be wound around stall bars or placed in an area where horses have easy access to them. Chewing on the stems and licking sticky sap may cause irritation to the mouth and gastrointestinal tract, and dried sap in a horse’s mane and tail is difficult and time-consuming to remove. Yew (Taxus species) is an exception—cuttings in any form from this poisonous shrub should never be used in wreathes, garlands or decorations on stall doors, on fences, or in barns or pastures where horses might have any access at all. The Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidate), a common landscape shrub, is the most widely recognized yew, growing well in almost all parts of the United States, but other yews such as the English yew (Taxus baccata) and Canada yew (Taxus canadensis) are also poisonous. The dark-green needles and attractive fleshy, red fruit make it an ideal candidate for holiday decorations, but the needles and seeds, dried or fresh, are highly toxic to horses, dogs, cats, livestock and people. Widely referred to as the “tree of death,” yew plants contain several alkaloids that affect cardiac activity. Collectively referred to as “taxines,” the toxins inhibit sodium and calcium exchange in myocardial cells, resulting in abnormal electrical activity and cardiac arrhythmias. The amount of yew necessary to cause toxicosis in horses is very small—estimated to be about 227 g (0.5 lb) for a 454-kg (1,000-lb) horse—and the onset of action is so rapid (generally two to three hours) that most horses are found dead next to yew clippings, wreathes or shrubs. Common signs evident before death include muscle tremors, ataxia, bradycardia, dyspnea and seizures. Sadly, there is no antidote and most horses die even when supportive treatment is provided. Other plants such as mistletoe (Phoradendrom species) and English holly (Ilex aquifolium) are less toxic but should still be avoided. It is tempting to place a sprig or two of mistletoe over a stall door, but anyone wanting to kiss under the mistletoe should be advised to bring it to barn for the day and take it home with them when they leave. Berries are the most toxic portion of the plant, but all parts contain some amount of toxin. Signs of mistletoe poisoning are very rare but include colic, dyspnea, bradycardia, erratic behavior, muscle tremors and seizures. Mechanical injury from the sharp, pointed leaves of English holly may cause gastrointestinal signs such as hypersalivation, head shaking and lip smacking and ophthalmic irritation or corneal damage Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) plants have an overrated reputation as being toxic but are actually quite safe. They contain diterpenoid euphorbeol esters and steroids with saponin-like properties (detergents). The milky white sap released when the stem is snapped or cut can cause a contact irritation to the skin and eyes, pruritus, and hypersalivation or gastrointestinal upset, but the signs are generally short-acting and self-limiting. Most artificial or synthetic decorations are safe to use around horses but need to be placed so horses with busy mouths cannot chew or otherwise ingest them. Tinsel and ribbons, if swallowed, may result in esophageal choke, gastrointestinal upset, colic or an intestinal foreign body obstruction. Homemade dough-type ornaments and decorations contain a moderate amount of salt and may be hazardous to smaller horses, ponies and minis that ingest more than one or two larger decorations. Holiday stockings, especially those stuffed with treats and goodies, hung on stall doors, may be easily grabbed by a curious horse that would rather eat the entire stocking contents than enjoy the decoration. While most treats are not harmful, an entire stocking eaten rapidly may result in esophageal choke, colic or a foreign body obstruction. It is far better to hang all the stockings together in single location far away from curious horses with busy mouths. Battery operated ornaments and decorations as well as loose batteries should be in a location inaccessible to horses. Chewing or swallowing a chewed or intact battery may cause irritation and burns in the mouth, an electrochemical burn in the esophagus, or an intestinal foreign body requiring surgical removal. Decorating or dressing up a horse for plays, costume parties or just in good fun is not unusual. Care should be taken that these costumes do not have any loose buttons or objects that may contain lead or other toxic metals. As with all costumes, eyes and noses should not be covered and any body paint used should be listed as nontoxic. Sweet treats such as chocolate and baked goods are generally harmless in small amounts, so there is no need to worry if a horse, even a miniature horse, eats a chocolate donut or small package of chocolate candies. The amount of theobromine, one of the toxins in chocolate, is harmful in larger amounts, so feeding more than a treat or two is not recommended. Visitors to the barn should be advised that feeding small amounts of any sweet treat, even crunchy carrots, may be hazardous to obese or insulin-resistant horses. Senior horses often have poor dentition and a high potential for esophageal choke, so all holiday treats including apples and carrots need to be broken into smaller pieces for them. Caffeine-containing beverages are not especially harmful in small amounts, but beware the holiday punch made with ethanol. Horses are as sensitive to ethanol as humans, and spiked holiday punch is best left to adult humans and not fed to horses either as a treat or with malicious intent. Clinical signs of sedation, depression and incoordination occur within 30 to 60 minutes and may last for several hours, depending on the amount and concentration of ethanol ingested. It goes with out saying that candles and other items that plug into any outlet should not be used anywhere inside the barn. While they are lovely to look at, the risk of fire hazard or electrocution is simply too high. Wiring on lights should be inspected each year before putting them up outside and kept well away from horses and other barn pests that may chew on the cords. Outdoor LED lights are safer and burn cooler, so, if possible, they should replace older holiday lights. Toys and ornaments with cords should be plugged into outlets in areas inaccessible to horses. If left in front of a stall, horses can easily drag it into their stall and start a fire or chew on the cord and electrocute themselves. The holiday season should be a time filled with fun and festivities. Sharing this with equine friends is a common occurrence in most barns and with a little knowledge, common sense and advanced planning everyone should be safe and sound. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dr. Hovda is the Director of Veterinary Services at Pet Poison Helpline and SafetyCall International, Bloomington, Minnesota. About Pet Poison Helpline Pet Poison Helpline, an animal poison control center based out of Minneapolis, is available 24 hours, seven days a week for pet owners and veterinary professionals that require assistance treating a potentially poisoned pet. The staff provides treatment advice for poisoning cases of all species, including dogs, cats, birds, small mammals, large animals and exotic species. Pet Poison Helpline is available in North America by calling 800-213-6680. Additional information can be found online at www.petpoisonhelpline.com. As posted in http://veterinaryteam.dvm360.com/dont-deck-stalls-with-these-holiday-hazards?... [Read more]

Like many things for our horses, the basic, simple things in life are often the best. Check out this article by Monique Warren - Sand Colic - The Surprising (Simple) Cure & Prevention for a look into the effectiveness of hay vs psyllium husk in preventing sand colic. According to studies at the University of Florida, hay is overwhelmingly the most effective way to move sand from the digestive tract and prevent accumulation. Hay Pillows, or one of the many other options now available - can play a part in creating a more natural environment, especially for horses unable to graze because of stabling, travel or metabolic issues. To trim or not to trim your horse’s whiskers? The jury’s out… Gemma Stanford, the BHS Director of Welfare, told H&H: “The purpose of the horse’s whiskers both around the eyes and muzzle provide sensory feedback on the horse’s environment. The length of the whiskers determines the safe distance from unfamiliar objects or substances and enables them to determine unfamiliar characteristics of food or detect small inedible objects providing an environmental map.* Links: Feeding Practices, Equine Dental Health - and Whiskers? Can Beet Pulp Replace Psyllium to Avoid Sand Build Up?... [Read more]

As I was updating and checking links, I found the link to Dr. Garlinghouse's iconic article on Deciding When It's Time, originally posted on Ridecamp,  is no longer active.  I have taken the liberty of posting it here, with the forward from Dr. Eleanor Kellon as posted in the ECIR group. Deciding When It’s Time This was posted by Dr. Garlinghouse on Ridecamp in the summer of 2007 and is reprinted here with permission (with a foreword by Eleanor Kellon, VMD). The discussion below is an excellent general blue print for how to objectively approach the decision to euthanize. It is geared primarily to animals facing age/chronic conditions. There are also some acute conditions you may face that, while extremely painful to watch, will indeed pass. Hoof abscesses is a good example. These can be painful enough to keep the horse down or 3-legged lame most of the time but once the abscess bursts the pain is rapidly relieved. In addition to the excellent advice below, I'd just like to add that before making the decision make sure you know the cause of the pain, what the usual course of the specific condition is and last, but most important, forget about anything and everything that everyone else is telling you and take a private moment to look deeply into your horse's eyes. You'll know. Also, if you are not faced with having to make the decision because of an acute worsening of the horse's condition give some thought to a ceremony/celebration on the day of passage. Let all your horse's friends say good-bye. Bring together those close to you so that you can laugh and cry together. Give him a good grooming, a nice walk, a meal of all his favorites and take lots and lots of pictures. This is the part of the cycle of life which we really don't understand and there's no avoiding the pain, but the level of your pain will be in direct proportion to how special your horse is. It's a tribute. Eleanor First of all, I agree with [the] comments that sending them on their way a touch too early is preferable to too late; and also that a shorter, comfortable life is preferable to a long, miserable one. That would also be my preference for myself, as well, though it hasn't yet been put to the acid test. Since I'm a vet, I have to have "the talk" with owners on a regular basis. I also very often hear the comment, "this must be the worst part of your job." And that's not true, because in virtually all cases, I'm doing a profound kindness for the animal, and very often, for the owner as well (though they may not always realize it at the time, if ever). At least a part of why I chose to become a veterinarian instead of a human physician is because I can do for a suffering animal what we won't do for a suffering fellow human being. So I think one of the first things to consider, when wondering whether it's "time", is that you are in all likelihood making a kind decision on your animal's behalf, at least when the animal is having a significant amount of pain just getting around. Please don't take this that I'm advocating "getting rid of any pet just because it's no longer useful"---I'm not. I have my share of creaky animals that will continue to live out their lives as long as I can keep them comfortable and happy. When I can't, then regardless of the personal pain their loss will cause me, it is my responsibility as their caretaker to relieve them of theirpain, even when that solution entails a humane death. When I'm talking to clients that are asking whether or not it's time, I suggest that they make a handwritten list---don't just keep a mental tally in your head, because then it's easy to give yourself a selective memory when you want to avoid a difficult decision. Write it down and keep it somewhere safe and easily found. The list should entail all the things you know about that animal that define a quality, enjoyable life for THAT animal---maybe not even at the prime of its life, but as a happy, healthy animal with some good miles left. They can and should include big things like eating with appetite and enjoyment; the ability to move themselves to different areas to eat, drink, relieve themselves, thermoregulate and socialize; and they can be little, individual things like flipping their tail over their back to skip across the pasture, or playing fetch with the stuffed bunny, or wanting to go for an outing of some sort, etc (obviously, things appropriate to the species involved). It should, if appropriate, also balance the need for invasive, uncomfortable medical therapies---a gram of bute a day obviously isn't a big deal, while daily care of deteriorating, painful, non-healing wounds are another. Just as with anything data-point related, the longer the list, probably the more accurate it will be in defining the animal's life. Then start marking off the things as the animal no longer can or will do them, or only does with great difficulty. And don't cheat. If the animal can only turn around by slowly hopping, or limping so that bystanders wince, or won't move at all when it easily would have a few years earlier, then it's time to cross off "gets around with reasonable comfort". When you've crossed off half your list, it's not time yet, but definitely time to be paying more attention, and monitoring little extras to make their life easier. When two-thirds to three-quarters of the list is crossed off, it's probably in the not-too-distant future, depending on whether the remaining list-points are big things, or little things. It's pretty individual. IMO, when 80% of the list is crossed off, it's usually time to say thank you, I love you, and goodbye; and if you've crossed off 90% or more off the list, you've waited too long, which is a pretty poor thank you to a good friend. These are just guidelines, not rules. The concept isn't mine, it was originally put together by some counselors that specialized in pet-loss issues, as well as other veterinarians and a random ethicist or two. I think it works pretty well, and not only helps avoid too-late animal suffering issues (sometimes), as well as hopefully some of the feeling that many owners subconsciously get of "I'm murdering my animal, I'm a bad person", which has been well-documented in multiple studies. I think the key element in deciding "when" is not based on when is the kindest time for *you*, but when is the kindest time for your animal. It's rare that the two coincide, and if we're to be responsible caretakers for our animals, we have to choose to take on some extra pain for their behalf, so they don't have to for ours. JMO.... [Read more]

A quick reminder - don't skimp on the salt just because it's getting colder. Even in the Southwest with the crazy weather - record highs in the daytime and cooling down at night, many horses are less inclined to drink enough water.  In most areas, horses are transitioning from pasture to hay for the winter with it's much lower moisture levels - and even when pasture is still available the moisture content is usually much lower than spring and summer grass.  This transition is a critical time for impaction colic as total water intake is reduced. For older horses this is compounded by the lower levels of saliva they produce even in optimal conditions. Can we prevent impaction colic related to low water intake? Adding salt to your horse's feed will help trigger thirst and increased drinking.  If you haven't already made a habit of adding a Tablespoon of salt to the feed, it may take some time for your horse to get used to the taste - start small with just a sprinkle and work up to an ounce a day for the average horse. Don't rely on salt blocks - horses generally can't get adequate amounts from them - but a plain white block should be available as a backup.  If you see the block being worn down from use, that's an indicator you probably should be adding more salt to the feed.  Loose salt is a good option but you need to protect it from rain and monitor intake. It's also important to monitor water intake. I prefer to not use automatic waterers so I can quickly judge how much water my horses are drinking. For an average size horse we want to see them drinking at least five gallons a day, and preferably closer to 8-10 gallons when on dry hay and feed. Automatic waterers need to be checked frequently - and an alternativee water source supplied if there is a chance they might freeze. If you do have automatic waterers, learn how to check you horses hydration by doing a skin pinch on the neck - it should "snap back" within a second or two - and press your thumb on the gums to check capillary refill - the spot you pressed should pink up again within 2-3 seconds.  A horse becoming dehydrated will appear "gaunt" - even if they have good body condition - a telltale spot to check is the flank right in front of the hip.  Another sign is "sticky" mucous membranes and manure that appears dry. Whether your use tanks, buckets, automatic waterers or a combination, consider the reliability of your water source.  Could a storm cause power outages which will keep your well from functioning or cause the water company's pumps to fail?  Think ahead and prefill extra tanks and buckets if they might be needed. In warmer parts of the country, we're usually not as well prepared for freezes and may need to resort to bringing warm water from the house if there is a hard freeze.  Lining buckets or trash containers with clean garbage bags then closing the tops will let you transport full buckets without half of it splashing out. If you suspect your horse is becoming dehydrated, try to provide as much wet feed as possible - soupy beet pulp or hay pellet mashes, well soaked hay.  Even if the hay freezes, as long as the horse eats it they'll get the benefit of the moisture. I'm saddened every time I hear of a horse with a winter impaction which might have been avoided by monitoring water intake and the most important supplement of all - plain white salt! Patti in (crazy record high hot) Vail AZ... [Read more]

This amazing sculpture by artist Lauri Slenning is installed on the Houghton Road median just south of 22nd street as part of the Houghton Corridor improvement.  Depending on the time of day, the lighting and the angle of approach the Mare and Foal seem to disappear. In other lighting their realism is startling. See the artist's website for other views http://www.slenningsculpture.com Looking forward to seeing you all at 2017 NO Laminitis! in a few weeks! The informal "meet and greet" with be at the Hilton Thursday evening before the conference. Welcome to warm, sunny Tucson Arizona - don't forget your bathing suit! Patti... [Read more]

conversion calculator -  simply plug in the amount shown on the label, select the "units" (ppm, %, etc.) shown and the calculator will show the results. $$$ In, $$$ Out - make your $$$ count! If this were a "supplement" which you'd usualy feed in ounces,  at 1.8 mg/oz you'd see that it doesn't come anywhere near supplying sufficient copper without feeding some huge amount. Don't shop for feed or supplements blindly - you can use the calculator to see if your horse is really going to get what he needs.  And don't get taken in by the "BIG" bucket - checking with the conversion calculator can help you decide if it's truely a bargain or if you're paying good money for a lot of filler. https://www.triplecrownfeed.com/compare/triple-crown-unit-conversion-tool/... [Read more]

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsBq0EydwwDf2HQy0LOJ3ukbCKZvM-XYur4LZBU9rbnxEb09zSiE5fwMEkVw0JyQI3Ol7MkpM774HyTbdzKSAF2zmsZqCCmlP4nr4K0Ou2PmL3mc3-T-2zyUwVAEJBG6RoaQMekw/s1600/No+Laminits+2017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsBq0EydwwDf2HQy0LOJ3ukbCKZvM-XYur4LZBU9rbnxEb09zSiE5fwMEkVw0JyQI3Ol7MkpM774HyTbdzKSAF2zmsZqCCmlP4nr4K0Ou2PmL3mc3-T-2zyUwVAEJBG6RoaQMekw/s640/No+Laminits+2017.jpg" width="568" /></a></div> <br />... [Read more]

where to find it. Equi-Analytical website.  http://equi-analytical.com/nutrient-requirement-tables/ I'd like to thank everyone who has stuck with me through what turned into a very stressful year filled with a multitude of unanticipated medical issues but which brings me to this holiday realizing I am blessed in my friends, my family, my horses and my life. Links: Mineral Balancing Worksheets on Google Drive How to Access the Equine Nutrition Balancing Spreadsheets http://equi-analytical.com/nutrient-requirement-tables/... [Read more]

Dr. Eleanor Kellon, VMD, well known  leader and innovator in equine nutrition, has worked well for clients horses in the Southwest and across the country. a sensation that causes the desire or reflex to scratch, arises from inflammation of nerves. Once sensitized, it becomes easier and easier for the nerves to become "excited" and more and more difficult to quell the sensation.  The sensitivity may carry over from the original culprit (an insect bite or contact with a noxious plant or substance) so that almost anything becomes a "trigger" - something which will set off the need to scratch.  Along with this comes a whole catalog of false-positive "allergies", even to substances the horse has never been exposed to before. A "true" allergy requires previous exposure to an allergy causing substance and the development of antibodies to the allergen itself, while a "false" allergy is an inflammatory reaction to a trigger acting as an irritant to the immune system. Spirulina Thinking ahead to your horse's spring and summer response to their usual triggers - bug bites, sweat, etc. - be prepared to take action before these triggers can set off a full scale inflammatory response. If your horse always breaks out in hives at the first sign of a gnat or midge, begin giving Spirulina at a rate of 20 grams twice a day (or 40 grams once a day) about a month before the first bug is expected to appear.  Spirulina is a farmed source of a specific blue-green algae (not "any" blue-green algae will do). Despite some of the outrageous claims of Spirulina as a "super food", it does have some mast cell inhibition properties and suppression of histamine levels which can effectively slow down or even halt some inflammatory responses, (similar in effect to the human medication montelukast). chondroitin sulfate.  This is the "same" chondroitin popular as a joint supplement but given at a rate of 2.5 to 5 grams per 500 pounds body weight per day, or 5 to 10 grams per day for an average horse. Nutrition as Therapy courses!) Warm regards, Patti in very chilly Vail Az Links: I have included Wikipedia and commercial links here today because they provide some simple explanation. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itch https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allergy http://www.desertequinebalance.com/articles/allergic-skin-reactions http://www.desertequinebalance.com/supplements/omega-3 http://www.desertequinebalance.com/supplements/vitamin-e http://www.drkellon.com http://www.drkellon.com/coursedescriptions/nutritionasatherapy.html http://www.mybesthorse.com/productinformation/spirulina.html http://horsetech.com/equine-supplements/basic-ingredients/spirulina http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1781653/pdf/12061428.pdf http://www.lifeextension.com/protocols/immune-connective-joint/allergies/page-03 http://www.mybesthorse.com/productinformation/chondroitinsulfate.html... [Read more]

Just another reminder that these conditions in the Southwest can set up your horse to easily become dehydrated which can lead to an impaction. Your first line of defense? SALT!  An adult horse needs about an ounce of plain white salt a day added to feed for maintenance - about four teaspoons or a small handful. This will ensure an adequate "thirst response" as long as fresh clean water is available.  Most horses can't get enough salt solely from a block, although a plain white block or brick should always be kept available in their feeder and/or turn out area. Next in our line of defense is monitoring water intake. My horses consistently are drinking ten to twelve gallons each now that the weather has cooled down, and a little more when daytime highs go up into the 80's (I just love living in Arizona!)  I long ago got rid of my automatic waterers and switched to large muck buckets for water, along with a 100 gallon tank in the turn out area. If you use automatic waterers, they need to be checked every day to ensure they are working properly and not freezing up during the night; providing a bucket of water also is good insurance but not always possible if you board. You should also do a hydration check on your horse daily - squeeze a fold of skin between your index finger and thumb, it should snap back flat in less than three seconds, and check that the gums are moist, not dry or sticky. Consider using a leaf mulcher to chop hay into finer lengths and/or wetting the hay down.  Getting the older horse used to accepting concentrates as a mash, with wetter and soupier consistency as it's accepted, is a good way to get more water into these older campaigners.  Hay pellets and beet pulp shreds will hold many times their weight in water and the fineness of the grind makes them a good option. Feeding the mash in a large muck bucket will also encourage whoever is doing the feeding to add more water than if the feed is mixed up in a small bucket. I mix the beet pulp shreds, Timothy hay pellets, supplement (AZ Copper Complete), salt and any other add-ins in easy to carry buckets out to the stalls, then dump it into the large muck buckets and soak it all with a hard spray setting with a hose to thoroughly mix, using at least a gallon of water per horse.   The muck buckets are easy to keep clean and don't tip easily - at least not until they're down to licking up every last drop! Links: http://horsetech.com/arizona-copper-complete http://www.bestreviews.guide/leaf-mulchers? http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/muck%20bucket... [Read more]

Prevent Seasonal Colic and Ulcers Holistically by Joyce Harman, DVM from HolisticHorse.com Not something we want to see in our barn! “It’s no secret that horses have a finicky digestive system. By design, they should move and graze for up to 20 hours a day. This natural behavior keeps the hindgut full, which leads to a properly functioning digestive tract. Most horse owners aren’t able to provide this optimum environment and alter the horse’s patterns to fit into their lifestyles. At times, that means stalling horses or keeping them in small paddocks, while feeding them large amounts of processed feed. Whether we realize it or not, altering the natural behavior puts stress on the horse’s body.” See entire article here. Dehydration is often a primary cause of winter impaction colic. As the weather cools down, our horses may need to be encouraged to continue drinking adequate water - this is best done by adding salt daily to their feed. Most horses won’t get the one to two ounces (four to eight teaspoons) of salt they need to provide their sodiumrequirement (it's the sodium which triggers a thirst response) from a block. If your horses aren’t used to having salt added to their feed, you can start by “salting the environment” - literally sprinkling salt around their stall, on their hay, etc. the help them get used to the smell and taste.  Then gradually add up to at least one ounce per day for an average 900-1100 pound horse. If you provide free choice salt, make sure you monitor their intake. It’s also important to monitor your horses’ water intake during the winter which can be difficult if you use automatic waterers - especially as they can be subject to freezing. Old Camping Trick:  In my part of Arizona, we generally have only ten nights or less of hard freeze. I’ve found the easiest way to get fresh warm water to my horses on these days is to place a clean trash bag in muck buckets, fill them at the house then tie off the top of the bags.  I can then drive them to the barn in my truck or in a cart without sloshing or losing a drop.  Warm regards from Links: http://www.desertequinebalance.com/articles/Winter-Water http://www.desertequinebalance.com/articles/introducing-new-feeds http://holistichorse.com/health-care/%3A-prevent-seasonal-colic-and-ulcers-holistically/... [Read more]

This has been a busy and challenging summer for me and it's good to finally be back on line - though it will still be some time before I expect to be back in the saddle. “Comparing the cost of providing Vitamin E for our horses” at my website. Thanks to Rob Stuart, Ph.D., President of Stuart Products, Inc. (supplier of EMCELLE TOCOPHEROL micellized alpha-tocopherol) for pointing out some changes which were needed. http://www.desertequinebalance.com/supplements/vitamin-e http://www.cvm.umn.edu/umec/lab/vitE/home.html http://www.drkellon.com/coursedescriptions/nrcplus.html http://ecirhorse.org/index.php/insulin-resistance/treatment-of-insulin-resistance... [Read more]

I frequently enjoy reading David Ramey, DVM's interesting articles on his website and the variety of  comments they evoke at his Facebook page. While I identify with Dr. Ramey's common sense approach and his feelings about the many costly yet ineffective treatments and interventions marketed to horse owners, I often can't agree with his blanket approach of throwing out any intervention which isn't totally based on published scientific study. Midas turns his daughter into gold I once saw a claim by a mineral supplement manufacturer that the sodium (salt) in the supplement would be changed in the gut to potassium.  In alchemy, this is known as transmutation - and has also been known as the "Midas touch".  I would be very hesitant to purchase a supplement from a source which doesn't understand basic chemistry or digestion. HorseTech for all my custom supplement needs - they list "flax" as simply "flax", not a compendium of 18 or more substances that are intrinsic to flax and not added by them.) ECIR Group with Insulin Resistant and Cushing's horses. Clinical Signs Tracker which you can use to observe and track changes in your horse. http://www.doctorramey.com/if-you-see-results-what-else-is-there-to-say/ https://www.facebook.com/DRRameyDVM ‪https://www.dropbox.com/.../Clinical%20Signs%20Tracker...‬ http://ecirhorse.org http://www.horsetech.com... [Read more]

In the past twenty years I have only had one horse I've raised require dental floating. I have had rescues and "rehome" horses needing work but, when my vet or dental professional has checked my horses it's always been "They're fine, we'll check again next visit". Feeding Practices May Impact Horse Dental Health which explains how many modern diets and horse keeping practices can affect our horses' teeth. My Arizona "Pasture" My horses get to "graze" on mesquite, chaparral, prickly pear cactus and other desert bounty in addition to their main diet of ground-fed Bermuda hay with Timothy pellets added for variety.  When it's windy I place their hay in nets at a fairly low level and with extreme weather, they eat directly from floor mats in the barn. They've gotten quite good at ferreting out the stray clump of grass that shows up during rainy season and don't seem to have problems with the annual mesquite bean crop - likely because they ease into them as they ripen with daily access so don't gorge like a horse with limited turnout might. Along with good dental health, I haven't had sand issues from ground feeding, either.  I attribute this to always having hay available so their gut is never empty, feeding a substantial amount of (molasses-free) beet pulp daily with their supplements which supplies some pectin and mucilage, and never clipping muzzle hair.  I don't advocate direct ground feeding for show horses which may be clipped as they are lacking vibrissae - the essential, extremely sensitive whiskers which allow the horse to feel tiny differences - such as separating a flake of food from a grain of sand.  Because of the importance of the facial vibrissae to the horse, including for protection from eye trauma, trimming equine facial whiskers has been outlawed in Germany. See the fascinating discussion of sensory perception in the horse at the link below. Feeding Practices May Impact Horse Dental Health http://ker.equinews.com/article/feeding-practices-may-impact-horse-dental-health http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whiskers http://www.us.elsevierhealth.com/media/us/samplechapters/9780702026348/9780702026348.pdf... [Read more]

I was reminded today when looking online for some dental impression material for hoof packing that these styrofoam pads - along with a roll of duct tape - belong in every barn! (And on every veterinarian's, farrier's and other hoof professional's truck.) You may never need to use them but the styrofoam pads can be a lifesaver for a horse with acute laminitis while you get the diet and other factors in line. You need at least three sets that fit your horses to start - on heavier horses they will compress quickly so you may need to stack three pads in two to three days or less. If you have small, average and large horses, you should keep three sets in each size on hand. The newer instruction video is easy to follow. If the horse has a lot of extra toe length and you're not adept at trimming you may need your farrier/trimmer to trim and bevel the toe for you. But you can apply the foam while waiting for the trim or before shoes are pulled. Initially, get the hoof as clean as you can but if the horse is really sore that may be difficult - you can spend more time on "super cleaning" with a vinegar rinse in a squirt bottle between the first and second pad application (and some medicated powder can help with "hoof funk"). I can hear now "OMG, $33 for 3 sets times 3 or 4 sizes? I can't afford that!" Believe me - when you see your horse suffering from the pain of laminitis, you'd be willing to pay hundreds to relieve that pain (and the emergency vet bill will be at least that). So a few dollars spent on "insurance" now ("something providing protection against a possible eventuality we hope never happens") will be well worth it if you ever do need it. With best regards, Patti in Vail AZ - where Fall has fallen (and only 42 days until Winter Solstice) PS - Dental Impression Material can be the long term support solution to help you rehab your horse in boots. Check with your local farrier supply or see the links below. Links About EDSS Styrofoam Pads http://www.shopedss.com/products/EDSS-Styrofoam-Support-Pad.html EDSS Styrofoam Pad Instructional Videl http://youtu.be/DzUeYjYe5yE EDSS Sole Support [Dental] Impression Material http://www.hopeforsoundness.com/cms/impression-material-instructions.html... [Read more]

The Riding Instructor Don’t Trust Your Beginner Riders with a Beginner Instructor, Barbara Fox writes about one of her favorite subjects - the importance of mastering the basics. Good riding requires a knowledge of good basics. Good basics come from good instruction. It requires attention to detail and a desire to improve. Good riding requires patience and endurance and goal setting. Competition and fancy horses are not a requirement for developing an excellent set of basic skills. Competition should always be a test of our progress and should never be our end goal. If it becomes our end goal and winning become our only desire, then we resort to short cuts, gimmicks and tricks and we lose much of the real value of a life with horses. In the end we are riding only for a prize and not for the love of the sport. The Riding Instructor  is one of the few blogs I unhesitantly suggest everyone subscribe to. Especially in the West, a lot of new riders seem to skip the basics and go right to "kick = forward and pull = stop" without a lot of understanding about what might motivate a horse. Whether you ride at a NFR Finals or Grand Prix level, or if you, your kids or your grandchildren are new to the world of horses, you will definitely learn something new each time you read one of Barbara's posts. Links: Don’t Trust Your Beginner Riders with a Beginner Instructor Horsemen’s Ground School – What’s Not To Love?... [Read more]

There are a lot of products out there which claim to support the immune system - some are beneficial and some are just unsubstantiated hype - and most are expensive. So what should you do if you feel your horse needs some help to stave off winter stress or to make it less likely he'll catch what the horse down the road has? Clean water at a drinkable temperature.  If you use automatic waterers, buckets or tanks should also be available.  Every winter I hear from someone who's horse went without water for a day or longer because the auto waters froze up. Salt is often overlooked but is important to encourage adequate hydration.  A 1000 lb horse should receive an ounce of salt (about 4 teaspoons/day) year round. Inadequate sodium (from salt) can lead to dehydration at a "cellular" level which can impede or obstruct normal cellular metabolism. Plain white table salt is best.  "Designer" salts make attractive door stops but may contain high levels of undesirable minerals. If your supplement contains less that the minimum requirement for iodine (most only contain 2 mg) use iodized salt which contains about 1.7 mg iodine per ounce. Adequate quality forage, preferably mainly grass hay, with additional provided as needed for colder temperatures.  (See the Cold Weather Feeding Chart.) If you feed mainly Bermuda hay and your horse doesn't seem to be looking/feeling his best, consider replacing some of the hay (up to half) with Timothy pellets.  The added cost can pay off in improved condition and good health.  Avoid feeds with high levels of simple sugars and starch (which converts to glucose) as excessive glucose can support inflammation.  The processing of "senior" feeds does help greatly with improving digestibility but some contain excessive starch. Look for high fiber feeds as these will be more apt to promote good gut health.  Or give your senior horse a 50/50 combination of beet pulp and steamed or crimped oats plus hay and/or Timothy pellets, along with a quality supplement,  for a nutritious senior diet.  Avoid feeds and supplements with "added" iron.  Excess iron can help fuel inflammation and many forages already supply excessive levels of iron. Look for a supplement which provides at least the minimum daily requirement for copper, zinc, iodine and selenium. For a 1000 lb horse these are: Copper 90-125 mg Zinc 360 mg Iodine 3.2 mg Selenium 1 mg Vitamin E and Omega-3 are important antioxidants which decline rapidly when hay is cut and cured.   For best immune support, provide vitamin E at a rate of 1000 IU per 500 lbs of body weight (2,000 IU for a 1,000 lb horse). It doesn't matter if the vitamin E is synthetic or natural but it does need fat for absorption.  Using human gel caps which also contain oil is best, otherwise add a small amount of oil at feeding time.  For an inexpensive oil which also adds a small benefit from medium chained triglycerides, try Costco's Mediterranean Blend (canola, olive and grape seed oils). The simplest and most cost effective source for Omega-3 is flax. Provide about 2 ounces/day of fresh ground flax seed (which can be pre-ground and stored in the refrigerator) or stabilized flax - HorseTech NutraFlax, Omega HorseShine or Triple Crown OmegaMAX. Iodine and selenium are both important for adequate thyroid functioning. If your supplement has inadequate iodine, use iodized salt or the original Source meal which has a guaranteed level of iodine. If using another kelp or seaweed product, check that the iodine level is guaranteed. Most supplements include selenium at about 2 mg per serving (2 mg per day). If blood tests show low selenium levels, you may need to use a selenium yeast product such as Platinum Selenium Yeast at a higher than usual dosage to bring the level up.  I feel  using an oral selenium yeast algorithm is safer than selenium injectables.  Vitamin A - around 15,000 IU/day.  Vitamin A losses in hay occur over time; if hay is over six months since cutting it should be supplemented.  Many supplements provide this or you can use human gel caps. Vitamin D - horses are able to synthesize their own vitamin D and it is also stored in the liver, usually in quantities sufficient to carry most horses through the winter.  If supplementing, stay close to the minimum requirement (3,000 IU for a 1000 lb horse) as excessive D can be toxic. Again, if not provided in your supplement you can add human gel caps. Glutamine - this is an amino acid which is being added more frequently to equine probiotics.  It has been shown to be protective for the mucous membrane lining of the intestines which may help support the intestinal flora production of some immune modulators.  There has been more research lately showing the importance of the intestinal lining and intestinal flora in maintaining immunity. Cost to provide glutamine is about $0.44 for 10 grams per day. See the links below. B-vitamins - not likely deficient except in stressed horses or those with gut issues.  May be included in supplements or can try a human "multi-B" tablet.   Adding yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae - Diamond V or Yea Sac) can help provide a substrate for intestinal flora, which synthesize the B vitamins, to thrive. Warm regards, Links: Flax http://www.horsetech.com/nutra-flax.html http://www.omegafields.com/equine-products/omega-horseshiner.html http://www.triplecrownfeed.com/products/supplements/triple-crown-omega-max-omega-3-oils-horse-health/ Glutamine  MyBestHorse http://www.mybesthorse.com/productsorderhere.html  http://purebulk.com/l-glutamine-powder.html#.Uq3-1ZH-nfM Selenium Yeast http://www.platinumperformance.com/equine-selenium-yeast/productinfo/eselp1 http://www.horsetech.com/selen.html Vitamin E and Omega-3 Information and links to sources http://www.desertequinebalance.com/supplements/vitamin-e http://www.desertequinebalance.com/supplements/omega-3 Yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae locally at feed mills for best prices http://www.horsetech.com/yeast-plus.html  Reasonably priced "general" supplements  http://www.horsetech.com/high-point-alfalfa.html (the "alfalfa" should be used with Bermuda) http://www.horsetech.com/high-point-grass.html (use with cool season grasses, Timothy pellets) Source Focus Hoof http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=2e87bf0a-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5&gas=Source http://www.desertequinebalance.com/Files/handy-calculators... 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The thermometer showed 42°F this morning - chilly for those of us used to the sunny warmth of Southern Arizona but just right for our horses. Horses thrive in “thermo neutral” temperatures ranging from 40 or 45°F to 65°F.  Above 65, they begin to rely on sweating, with water and salt loss, for cooling.  Under 45 they use energy to maintain their body temperature.   According to Dr. Robert A. Mowrey, Extension Horse Specialist at North Carolina State University, the standard “critical temperature” is 45°F, with 10 degrees subtracted for wind and another 10 degrees subtracted for rain/wet coats becoming the “actual” temperature.  On a 45 degree day, if the horse is wet and unprotected from wind the “actual” temperature is 25 degrees - which is cold.  For each degree below the critical temperature the horse requires a 1% increase in calories to maintain a constant temperature. At 25°F a horse needs 20% more calories than when the temperature is a neutral 45 degrees. That’s 20% more calories, not 20% more forage - how that translates to hay or beet pulp depends on the DE (digestible energy in Mcal per pound) of the forage.  For grass hay with a DE of 0.8 Mcal/lb that would mean an additional 1.2 pounds of hay, with alfalfa hay or beet pulp at about 1.2 Mcal/lb, he would need less than a pound of additional forage. The calorie increase should come from forage - preferably long stem grass or alfalfa hay, but cubes, pellets or beet pulp also work. This is because the greatest amount of immediate heat maintaining energy is produced by the fermentation of forage in the hind gut.  While additional calories from grain will help retain body weight, grain doesn’t provide the heat-producing fermentation that forage does. The Cold Weather Feeding Chart and Calculator on my web site can help you determine how much additional forage is needed for your winter temperatures.  The Chart in the pdf file is set for a 1000 lb horse; you can use a percentage of the recommendation if your horse weighs more or less.  Or, if you’re comfortable with spreadsheets, you can download the Excel version (opens with Excel, Numbers or Open Office Calc) and plug in your horse’s weight and the DE of your hay. These are starting points - your easy keeper may need less and your hard keeper may need the more concentrated calories from alfalfa or beet pulp. And if your horse is a senior or is IR/PPID and prone to laminitis in the winter, don’t forget the boots and leg warmers.  Do use a cooler until your horse is dry after work but think twice about blanketing a horse with a full winter coat - no matter how cold it feels to us your horse can easily become overheated and start sweating under a winter blanket. Warm regards, Patti in sunny but chilly Vail, AZ Links Cold Weather Feeding Chart (pdf and Excel) http://www.desertequinebalance.com/Files/handy-calculators Cold Weather Feeding Practices for Horses  http://www.cvm.ncsu.edu/vhc/efac/equine/documents/ColdWeatherFeedingPracticesforhorse-B.Mowrey.pdf Nutritional content averages for feeds - Dairy One Feed Composition Library http://www.dairyone.com/Forage/FeedComp/disclaimer.asp... [Read more]

The Horse Report, published by UCDavis Center for Equine Health, has always been one of my “go to” references. UC Davis CEH Horse Report October 2013 The latest issue of the Horse Report, "Caring for Horses Through Life and Death" is now available on the Center for Equine Health’s web site both as a downloadable pdf or in Zmag format. All that we love deeply becomes a part of us. —Helen Keller Links UC Davis Center for Equine Health Publications: http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/ceh/current.cfm How Do You Know When It Is Time To Say Goodbye? Susan Garlinghouse, DVM  http://www.allcreaturesanimalhealth.com/site/view/212700_PetcareInformationPamphlets.pml... [Read more]

The annual Cascabel Holiday Fair  and  Forever Home Donkey Rescue Open House How is this equine nutrition related?  The donkeys at Forever Home are all on on mineral balanced donkey appropriate diets. Many of these rescues are unadoptable because of hoof problems, chronic medical issues, or other problems related to abuse as roping donkeys.  But they all have an opportunity to regain their health and live out their lives in peace in a protected sanctuary. If you're in the neighborhood, stop in to meet these delightful creatures and have some community fun in Cascabel.  This makes a wonderful day trip from Tucson or Phoenix! Warm regards, Patti in Vail AZ Links http://foreverhomedonkeyrescue.blogspot.com/2013/11/2013-cascabel-fair-and-open-house.html http://www.cascabel.org/fair.html... [Read more]

I just updated my web article on comparing Vitamin E costs, including links to sources and more information to help clarify forms and types of vitamin E.  I hope you will find the article helpful as this is always a challenging topic.  It's time to reactivate the Desert Equine Balance Group on Google Groups.  The group is focused on Equine Nutrition in the Southwest and related discussions - especially those pertaining to the differences we often see in some area hays (Arizona, California, Colorado, Nevada, New Mexico, West Texas and other arid areas) as they pertain to all horses - not just those who are insulin resistant or have Cushing's disease.   Changes in weather patterns, growing practices, increased costs of production and shipping and an expanding export market are affecting the availability and quality of forage for our horses and have, in some instances, caused problems for horse owners. Because of these changes and the scarcity of reliable information, together with the ever increasing knowledge level of horse owners, this seemed like the right time to have these discussions. 
More and more horseowners are taking nutrition courses, testing their hay and evaluating the results either on their own or with the help of an independent equine nutritionist - vets and feed manufacturers are responding! Horse owners are no longer willing to accept what's printed the label as gospel without seeing the data to back up claims.  Many have committed more hours to equine nutrition education that their veterinarians received in vet school - but to be fair, do we really expect our vets to be the ultimate authority on everything in this age of specialization? 
Savvy consumers understand that "controlled starch" may contain well over an acceptable amount for their Insulin Resistant (IR) horse or pony and that the research about the effect of nitrates on horses is practically non-existant. 
If you're already a member of the  Desert Equine Balance Group, feel free to jump in with your questions and experiences.  Try to keep things focused on nutrition and no advertising thank you. If you're not a member and would like to join, go to  Desert Equine Balance Group and click on the Join Group button. If you have a Google account, you can use your gmail address or your Google profile.  (I apologize - I don't know exactly what it will ask if you don't have a Google account - likely they will want you to create one.) Links Comparing the cost of providing Vitamin E for our horses http://www.desertequinebalance.com/supplements/vitamin-e Desert Equine Balance Group on Google  http://groups.google.com/group/desertequinebalance... [Read more]

Awesome conference, lots of new information.  Some of the best part for me was watching the wonderful expressions as people  saw and heard the latest thinking and research. Sarah Braithwaite of Forageplus Forageplus in the UK joined us this year.  Sarah is one of those people who lights up the room when she enters and she has been a driving force in advancing balanced nutrition and laminitis prevention in the UK. Forageplus News: The Primary focus of the No Laminitis Conference is to prevent laminitis through disseminating information that can help metabolic and endocrinopathic horses.  ECIR is committed to providing high-quality information, with scientific backing and real-life experience. latest news update. NO Laminitis! UK conference happening next year? ECIR Facebook page plus watch for information on when and where the conference proceedings will be available.  And keep an eye on NO Laminitis! for information on the next conference. Links http://forageplus.co.uk https://www.facebook.com/ECIRGroup http://www.nolaminitis.org http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/EquineCushings/info... [Read more]

In the latest issue of a well known equine publication, an article on thyroid dysfunction suggests that "...most equine diets of hay and pasture grass (other than in the Pacific Northwest) contain far more than the daily required level of iodine...", and, in a sidebar, cautions that supplementation of iodine could worsen a suspected thyroid issue. Also overlooked here is the small but important role selenium plays in thyroid function. Iodine deficient soils in the United States Let's look at some of the facts about iodine. Average of range (0.1-0.6 mg I/kg DM) 0.35 mg I/kg DM For a 1000 lb horse,  455 kg x 0.007 = 3.18 mg Iodine/day avg  0.35 * 9.1 = 3.185 mg Iodine 45.5 mg for a 1,000 lb (455 kg) horse.  In a few instances (AZ horses on CAP water, high nitrates in hay, which I now always check in Southwestern hays and other grass hays with high protein levels) I will double the NRC recommendation but otherwise stick with the mid to high range. only when iodine is oversupplemented or when animals are receiving feeds containing unusually high amounts of iodine such as some types of seaweed." but toxicity in mares receiving as little as 40 mg a day has been reported. Iodine testing for hay and forage is not readily available at most forage labs in the US; when it is the cost may be prohibitive.  For example, at Cumberland Valley Analytical Lab, the price for their Iodine test is $75. On the other hand, if your horse is experiencing issues you feel may be related to excessive iodine intake, the cost may be a worthwhile investment. Iodine Testing document : Often overlooked when considering possible thyroid dysfunction is selenium deficiency - selenium is necessary for conversion of the inactive hormone T4 to the active thyroid hormone T3 and selenium deficiency together with high iodine intake may result in low T4 levels and other thyroid issues. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9187638  Selenium level testing in whole blood in horses is readily available and also easily included in forage testing (generally under $40). In summary, iodine is but one element of an overall mineral balanced equine diet. As with any other mineral or supplement, targeting just one nutrient without taking into account how all nutrients interact with one another is not likely to produce the desired results. Don't forget the salt! Links http://www.nap.edu/catalog.php?record_id=11653 http://desertequinebalance.blogspot.com/2006/10/iodine-requirement-in-equine-rations.html http://desertequinebalance.blogspot.com/2013/02/understanding-thyroid.html http://www.foragelab.com/Lab-Services/Forage-and-Feed/Price-List http://www.goatworld.com/articles/nutrition/iodine.shtml http://www.animalhealth.msu.edu/Bin/Catalog.exe?Action=Test&PAGE=12&Id=2236 http://www.animalhealth.msu.edu/Bin/Catalog.exe?Action=Test&PAGE=12&Id=2920 http://www.animalhealth.msu.edu/Sections/Nutrition/WEBCD.Nutr.REF.003.pdf... [Read more]