The Mill - Equine Blog
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The Equine Insights is a platform that centralizes the latest equine-related news from various sources, including articles, videos, and updates from equestrian news outlets, blogs, and social media.
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The Mill - Equine Blog

What You Need to Know About Electrolytes for Horses

Electrolytes are such a heavily used product for both humans and horses, yet the details of what, when, and why to provide them can get lost in blanket assumptions. For humans, if we plan to spend time outdoors doing, literally anything, in hot and/or humid weather, grabbing a bottle of Gatorade or Propel is common practice.  The blanket assumption is that if we’re going to get hot or sweaty, our bodies need more than just water to replenish and keep hydrated. We apply the same assumption to our horses.  While this line of thinking is not wrong, it’s important to remember that there are more things to consider when using electrolytes.   What are electrolytes, exactly?  Electrolytes are a combination of minerals sold as a commercial product, usually as a salt or paste. The combination typically contains sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, chloride, bicarbonate and fractional amounts of other trace minerals. When dissolved in water, electrolytes separate into charged ions, creating an electrical-chemical current that acts as the catalyst for many functions within the horse’s bodily processes, including muscle contraction, nutrient absorption, nerve firing, acid-base balance, and fluid regulation. Electrolytes function like triage nurses, directing the water that a horse ingests to the cells, organs, and areas that need it most.  Many options on the market also contain glucose or sugar in their formulation.  It’s important to note that horses differ from humans regarding electrolyte supplementation. For horses, sugar is not an important component. While it can improve the palatability of the electrolyte, it is not necessary. For those horses dealing with metabolic or insulin regulation issues, ensuring that the electrolyte you offer DOES NOT contain sugar is vitally important.  The most significant elements of electrolytes are sodium (salt) and potassium.  These minerals are generally consumed in sufficient amounts for the average horse at maintenance through their commercial feed and forage.  However, as we will discuss further, there are many circumstances in which electrolyte supplementation is necessary.   If the average horse at maintenance consumes enough salt and potassium through their feed and forage, why would they need an electrolyte supplement?   Let’s start with the mechanics of the sweating process:  1) The metabolic process that generates body heat begins when fat and glycogen are broken down and used as energy  2) The blood just under the skin warms and the excess heat rolls off the body and dissipates into the air  3) If the body continues to increase in temperature the next stage relies on the electrolytes within the body to activate the sweat glands  4) As sweat comes out of the horse’s pores and evaporates it creates a natural cooling system to help the body lower the internal temperature   Sweat consists of both water and lots of electrolytes. So, when horses sweat, they lose not only water but also the valuable minerals responsible for many biochemical functions within the body. Consequently, replenishment is crucial to the horse’s health. The more a horse sweats, the quicker it may need replenishment. For example, the average horse that sweats minimally due to environmental temperature or exercise is likely getting enough salt/potassium replenishment through the feed and forage it consumes. It may still be prudent to make both a white salt and trace mineral salt free-choice accessible via a loose salt/mineral tub or blocks. On the other hand, a horse actively training or in extremely hot environments and sweating profusely could benefit from additional electrolyte supplementation via a granular top-dress or paste.  Electrolyte imbalances and deficiencies cause dehydration and can affect the horse in multiple ways, from energy loss, weak or trembling muscles, to instability and in severe cases, can even cause death.  Therefore, it is important to discern when electrolyte supplementation is necessary and when it could be dangerous.    When Electrolyte Supplementation Can Be HELPFUL For Any Reason or Combination of Reasons That Cause Excessive Sweating:  Strenuous or prolonged exercise  Hot and/or humid temperatures  Illness  Dehydration  Diarrhea   Fever Metabolic conditions such as Cushing's when the horse retains too much haircoat which, in turn, creates more heat and causes perspiration  Traveling/Transportation  Stressful Situations  Showing   Any events outside of the normal everyday routine  When the Weather is Cold or Experiencing Variable Conditions – Cold temperatures and fluctuating weather can deter some horses from drinking enough water.  Adding an electrolyte supplement can help encourage them to drink more.  When Recommended by the Veterinarian or Nutritionist     When Electrolyte Supplementation Can Be HARMFUL   Administering at the Wrong Time or the Wrong Dosage.  Electrolytes are not stored in the body; they pass through the system and, if not utilized, the kidneys filter them out, and they are excreted in the urine. Consequently, ‘pre-loading’ a horse with electrolytes before a workout or event can cause an electrolyte imbalance. Similarly, administering a higher dosage than recommended by the manufacturer can also create electrolyte imbalances. These imbalances can trigger numerous other health-related issues.    If the Horse Has Not Had Access to Water and/or is Already Dehydrated.    When administering electrolytes, it is important first to ensure the horse has access to fresh, clean water. Giving electrolytes without access to water can cause electrolyte imbalances. Ensure the horse has actively consumed water before administration. Remember, electrolytes encourage the horse to drink more because the saltiness makes them thirsty. For the horse to improve its hydration, it must drink more. Electrolytes alone do not increase hydration.  Underlying Health Conditions. If you are dealing with any kind of health concerns, especially horses with kidney or renal dysfunction, heart or metabolic disorders, consult with your veterinarian before beginning electrolyte supplementation.  They can help direct you to the right product and dosage specific to your horse’s needs.     Electrolyte Forms Paste – For immediate and forced consumption  Powder/Salt – To use as a top-dress in either feed or water  If adding electrolytes to water, make sure to offer a bucket with the supplement and a bucket or tank without the supplement. The goal is to increase hydration. If the horse is picky, it can be deterred from drinking enough or any at all if it does not like the smell or taste of the water with the supplement.  If adding to feed, be sure to keep a close eye on the feed bucket after the horse has consumed its meal. Again, if the horse is sensitive and does not like the smell or taste of the supplement, it can cause them to eat less or walk away from their feed tub altogether. Some horses can rifle through their feed with the quiver of their muzzles to sift and separate the powder or salts to the bottom of the tub. If you find that the feed is gone, but the powder or salts remain, you may want to consider a different top-dress electrolyte product that may be more appealing to them or consider using a paste.  Free Choice Salt and Mineral – Having free-choice salt and mineral available to your horse is a wonderful idea, especially if your horse is simply turned out and living his/her best life.  Keep in mind, though, for a horse that is actively working or dealing with events, illness or out-of-the-normal conditions, self-serve supplementation is likely not enough.  On the flip side of this, be sure to monitor the consumption rate of free choice options.  Some horses get bored or like the taste and will mow through free choice salts and minerals like candy.  Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing, too.  Free Choice options include:  White Salt AND/OR Trace Mineral Salt  4lb Brick 50lb Block   Loose Salt/Mineral    The tips in this article can help you avoid blanket electrolyte assumptions to help you maximize your management efforts.  Electrolyte supplementation can be a useful tool when it comes to keeping horses well-hydrated.  Understanding the role electrolytes play and how and when to best utilize them are critical components for proper management.  If you have questions or would like to talk to one of our Equine Specialists about choosing the right electrolyte product for your horse, give us a call at The Mill.  We have a wide variety of options and are always happy to help.... 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Understanding Electrolytes: When to Provide Them to Your Horse

Electrolytes play a vital role in maintaining the balance of fluids and essential minerals within a horse's body. In certain situations, such as during periods of intense exercise, heat stress, or illness, horses may require additional electrolyte supplementation. While providing supplemental electrolytes is beneficial to replace what is lost, indiscriminately supplementing them can be dangerous to your horse. Let us break down appropriate situations of when to provide extra electrolytes and look at potential problems that can come from electrolyte imbalances if over-supplemented.    During Intense Exercise: Horses engaged in strenuous activities, such as endurance rides, show jumping, or racing, can experience electrolyte imbalances due to sweating. Consider providing electrolytes to your horse in the following scenarios:   Prolonged Exercise: If your horse engages in exercise lasting over an hour, electrolyte supplementation may help replace the minerals lost through sweating and maintain hydration.   Hot and Humid Conditions: High temperatures and humidity can exacerbate electrolyte loss. Electrolytes can aid in replenishing what is lost during exercise in these conditions.  Recovery from Illness or Diarrhea: During illness with fever or diarrhea, horses may experience fluid and electrolyte imbalances. In consultation with a veterinarian, consider providing electrolyte supplementation in the following cases:   Dehydration: If your horse is dehydrated due to illness or diarrhea, electrolytes can help restore the fluid balance and support recovery.   Veterinary Recommendation: Follow your veterinarian's guidance on electrolyte administration when your horse is recovering from specific illnesses or conditions that require electrolyte support.  Transportation and Travel: Transporting horses, especially over long distances, can be stressful and result in dehydration. Electrolyte supplementation can be beneficial under the following circumstances:   Extended Travel: For journeys lasting several hours or more, electrolytes can help maintain hydration during transit.   Hot Weather: If traveling in hot weather conditions, electrolytes can assist in preventing dehydration and promoting overall well-being.  High-Stress Events: Certain high-stress events, such as competitions, shows, intense training sessions, introducing new horses to a group or separation anxiety can lead to electrolyte imbalances. Consider the following situations for electrolyte supplementation:   Show or Event Preparation: Electrolytes can support hydration and aid in maintaining the overall health and performance of your horse during demanding events.   Heavy Sweating: If your horse experiences excessive sweating during training, competition, traveling or other times, electrolytes can help replace the lost minerals.  Nutritionist Recommendation: Always consult with your nutritionist or veterinarian before starting any electrolyte supplementation regimen. They can assess your horse's specific needs based on individual factors such as age, health, exercise intensity, and environmental conditions.      When is Supplementing Electrolytes Dangerous?    Improper Dosage: Providing electrolytes in incorrect dosages can have adverse effects on a horse's health. Overdosing or underdosing can disrupt the electrolyte balance and cause harm. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions or consult with a nutritionist or vet for proper dosage recommendations specific to your horse's needs.   Kidney Dysfunction: Horses with pre-existing kidney conditions or impaired renal function may be unable to handle excessive electrolyte levels. Electrolyte supplementation should be done cautiously or avoided altogether in such cases unless recommended by your vet.   Inadequate Water Intake: Electrolytes should never be given to a horse with insufficient access to water. Electrolyte supplementation without adequate water consumption can lead to further dehydration and potential electrolyte imbalances. Ensure your horse has ample access to clean, fresh water before, during and after administering electrolytes.   Underlying Medical Conditions: Certain medical conditions, such as heart disease or metabolic disorders like equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), can be negatively affected by electrolyte supplementation. These conditions may require special considerations or alternative approaches to maintaining electrolyte balance. Consult with a veterinarian familiar with your horse's medical history before introducing electrolyte supplements.  Electrolyte Imbalance Detection: Supplementing electrolytes without knowing the horse's existing electrolyte levels can be dangerous. If there is a suspected electrolyte imbalance, it is critical to have the horse properly evaluated by a veterinarian who can conduct blood tests to determine the specific electrolyte deficiencies or excesses. This will help tailor the electrolyte supplementation accordingly.  Inappropriate Timing: Administering electrolytes immediately before or during exercise without considering the horse's hydration status can be risky. Electrolyte supplementation should typically be provided after exercise or during recovery unless otherwise advised. Pre-loading electrolytes before an event can be dangerous if fluid balance or water intake is not sufficient. This ensures that the horse has an adequate opportunity to hydrate and avoids further dehydration.  Electrolyte supplementation can be beneficial in specific circumstances to support hydration, replenish essential minerals, and maintain overall health and performance in horses. However, it is crucial to provide electrolytes carefully to only replace what is lost to maintain a balance of minerals and fluids. Understanding the situations when electrolyte supplementation is appropriate and following recommended guidelines will ensure your horse receives the necessary support during periods of increased demand. Prioritize the well-being of your horse and work closely with your nutritionist, feed specialist or veterinarian to determine the most suitable electrolyte supplementation plan for your horse's individual needs. The Mill has multiple electrolyte products to provide your horse a balanced supplementation program for their summer activities.   SHOP ELECTROLYTES... [Read more]

What Are Equine Balancers?

Equine Balancer feeds are specially formulated supplements designed to provide essential nutrients that may be lacking in a horse's diet. These feeds are not complete feeds like traditional grains or forages but are meant to balance and complement the existing diet to ensure horses receive optimal nutrition.    Why Are They Used? Balanced Nutrition:  Equine Balancer feeds are used to fill nutritional gaps in a horse's diet, ensuring they receive all the essential vitamins, minerals, and amino acids needed for proper health and performance. Customization: Horses have diverse nutritional needs based on factors like age, activity level, and health status. Equine Balancers allow for tailoring the diet to meet individual requirements. Support for Specific Conditions: Some horses may have specific health conditions or dietary sensitivities. Equine Balancers can be adjusted to address these concerns without overloading the horse with unnecessary calories.  Equine Balancer feeds are valuable tools in maintaining the health and performance of horses. Understanding when and how to use them, along with choosing products from reputable companies, ensures that horses receive the tailored nutrition they need for a happy and healthy life. Always consult with equine professionals to create a nutrition plan that best suits your horse's individual needs. When and How to Use Equine Balancers: When to Use: Incomplete Diets: When a horse's diet lacks certain essential nutrients. Specific Life Stages: During growth, pregnancy, lactation, or in senior horses with changing nutritional needs. Performance Horses: To support the increased demands of training and competition. How to Use: Before incorporating Equine Balancer feeds into your feeding program, it's crucial to consult with a professional to assess the horse's current diet and specific nutritional needs. The type and quality of forage available is a major factor in what conentrates should be used to balance the ration. Proper Mixing: Equine Balancers are typically added to the existing diet, whether it's hay, pasture, or grain. The correct mixing ratio is essential to avoid over-supplementation. Regular Monitoring: Regularly assess the horse's condition, performance, and any changes in health to adjust the Equine Balancer feed as needed.   Companies Supplying Equine Balancers: Several reputable companies supply Equine Ration Balancers, each offering different formulations to cater to various needs. Companies like Kentucky Equine Research, Buckeye, Nutrena, and Purina have been at the forefront of research in equine nutrition. Nutrena: Nutrena's Empower Topline Balancer is a popular ration balancer to support optimal growth, performance, and maintenance. The formula has ingredients to support digestive health and topline strength building.  ProElite is also a Nutrena line that offers 3 Equine Balancers to complement alfalfa or grass forage as well as topline specific formulas.   Kentucky Equine Research KER’s All-Phase Ration Balancer provides extra protein, minerals and vitamins that complement any low grain feeding situation regardless of the phase of horse.   Buckeye Buckeye Feeds was one of the first companies to formulate a concentrated ration balancer for horses. Their early research opened the feed industry to understand how to provide quality nutrition without creating metabolic disorders from overfeeding cereal grains.  Gro ’N Win and Senior Balancer are the Buckeye Equine Ration Balancers available through The Mill.    Triple Crown  Triple Crown’s 30% Balancer and Balancer Gold are 2 formulas available at The Mill that provide good levels of nutrients to easily complete a balanced feeding program.   Purina Animal Nutrition: Known for its research-backed formulations, Purina’s Enrich Plus Equine Balancer is a formula that adds well-rounded supplementation to basic feeding programs.   McCauleys Equine Balancers available at The Mill are  M10 Balancer and the M30 formula.   Hallway Feeds has Stamm 30 Balancer now has a buffered mineral complex and is easy to incorporate into the diet of horses with various lifestyle stages.   If you have questions about how to provide needed nutrients without overfeeding your horse or spending more than necessary for feed supplements, ask us about the right balancer to complement your feeding program. The Mill's equine nutritionist and sales specialists can help you ensure that your horses are getting a balanced diet!... [Read more]

Tips for Handling Horse Feed in Hot Weather

Handling and storing horse feed during the hot and muggy summer months can be a challenge. The equine nutritionists at Kentucky Equine Research offer the following tips:  Store your feed in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated place. If there is a window in the feed room, you might consider putting in a window air-conditioner just for the summer months. If the feed room does not have a window but has a  door that shuts tightly, consider running a dehumidifier to remove moisture from the air. Using a closed bin for the feed is fine if it is in a cool place.  Do not buy any more feed than you can use up in 10 to 14 days. Avoid taking advantage of summer specials that give a free bag if you buy a certain quantity (e.g., buy 10 bags and get one free). This is not a bargain if you lose several bags to spoilage. Protect feed from direct sunlight.  Allowing air to circulate around the bags will help to avoid a buildup of internal heat. Never set bags directly on the floor, especially if it is concrete, as the bag will wick moisture and spoil the feed. Pallets are ideal because they get the bags high enough off the floor to let air circulate underneath them. If possible, set the bags up on end and slightly apart to allow the air to circulate all the way around (top, bottom, and sides). In areas with a lot of heat and humidity, the bags should not be stacked more than four high. Leave space between the stacks for air circulation.  Allow any heat within the bags to be released by “jouncing” the bags. This will also help avoid clumping in the feed. Remove shrink wrap from any bag because this covering will restrict the bags from breathing. Similarly, avoid storing feed in plastic bins because this too will limit air movement.   Galvanized steel bins have a tendency to sweat on the inside if they hold a high-moisture feed. If containers are used, be sure to clean out any remains of older feed before adding new feed to a container. Avoid storing feed in bulk bins in the summer.      Many feeds, including all those formulated by Kentucky Equine Research, contain sufficient mold inhibitor and antioxidants for protection during the summer months. However, with some off-brand feeds, summer heat and humidity can cause spoilage in stored products. In general, pelleted feeds keep longer than textured (sweet) feeds. The molasses in sweet feeds may become spoiled, and pelleted feeds can mold. High-fat feeds will develop a rancid odor fairly rapidly in the heat and must be used up quickly.  Horses have a very sensitive sense of smell. If you can smell that something is going bad, you can be sure that your horse can, too. It is a good idea to check any feed before offering it to your horse. If the horse will not eat it, get rid of it. If your horse has eaten spoiled feed, you may see signs like diarrhea or a loss of appetite. Most importantly, watch for indications of colic (horse looking at its flanks or kicking at its belly, patchy sweating, lying down and getting up repeatedly). Call a veterinarian if the horse seems uncomfortable.   Reprinted courtesy of Kentucky Equine Research. Kentucky Equine Research is an international equine nutrition, research, and consultation company serving horse owners and the feed industry. Our goals are to advance the industry's knowledge of equine nutrition and exercise physiology, apply that knowledge to produce healthier, more athletic horses, and support the nutritional care of all horses throughout their lives. Learn more at https://ker.com... [Read more]

Horse Heat Stress Management: Tips For Keeping Your Horse Cool In Summer

How to Help Your Horse Beat the Heat this Summer Understanding Your Horse’s Basic Needs  Not only do the summer months bring warmer temperatures and longer days, but they also bring more opportunities to ride and compete with your horse. As temperatures rise, so do the risks of your horse experiencing heat-related stress, such as dehydration and heat stroke. To make the most of your summer riding opportunities, keep an eye on your horse and modify your training and horse care program.  Water  The average 1000-pound horse at rest drinks 8 to 10 gallons of water a day. When temperatures rise above 70° F, horses in work can drink twice as much. Make sure they have access to clean, fresh and cool water at all times, whether your horse is turned out or in his stall. By drinking cool water, they will be able to lower their body temperature on their own. If your horse isn’t a big drinker, you can encourage water consumption by providing free choice salt blocks in your pastures and stalls.  Shade  Providing shade to your horse throughout the day is almost as important as making sure your horse has access to water. Whether you board in a barn or in a field, shade is needed. Obviously, a horse in a stall is provided shade from being indoors, however, they will need shade when they are turned out. Make sure your pastures offer several shade options.  If there aren’t shade-bearing trees in your field, offer an escape from the sun with a run-in shed. With run-ins, the higher the roof the more air circulation and cooler the shed will be. As shade and water go together in importance, place your water troughs in shady areas.  Do you have a field that doesn’t have much shade? Alter your turnout schedule. Either turn out your horses at night, or if you have a horse that doesn’t require a lot of turnout put him in the field early in the morning. Both of these options will let your horse beat the heat and powerful rays of the sun.  Conditioning  Before the temps rise too much, learn how to assess the body condition of your horse. If your horse has been in regular work since the winter weather subsided, he will be more likely to be able to handle the rising temperatures. Horses that are out of shape, overweight, and even thin under-muscled horses have a hard time dealing with the extra stress associated with heat.  If your horse hasn’t been in a regular exercise program, slowly build up their fitness and stamina as the heat and humidity rises. This slow and steady approach will help ensure your horse stays healthy and not overstressed this summer.  The Importance Of Equine Electrolytes  You know summer is here when your local feed store and tack shops start expanding their section devoted to electrolytes.  So what are electrolytes and how do they help your horse in the summer? According to Dr. Marty Adams, Equine Nutritionist for Southern States, “Electrolytes are minerals in the horse’s body fluids and tissues that are involved in muscle contraction, thirst regulation, nerve function and maintenance of blood pH.”  Electrolytes can be found in your hay, pasture and horse feed. However, horses in work, (especially those who travel to compete) need additional electrolytes to maintain good health and perform at their highest level.  Like humans, horses use sweating as a way to cool off during periods of warm weather and while exercising. When a horse sweats, not only is water lost, but important electrolytes like sodium, chloride and potassium are lost. If too many electrolytes are lost serious problems like fatigue, muscle cramps, and colic can occur.  Dr. Adams says, “When looking for an electrolyte for your horse, sodium chloride should be listed first on the ingredient list, followed by potassium chloride as the second ingredient.” There are two types of electrolytes, salt-based and sugar based. While sugar-based electrolytes are highly palatable, you won’t meet your horse’s daily salt requirements without feeding a lot of the sugar-based electrolytes.   Electrolytes can be given to your horse in a variety of ways. You can add water and administer via a dosing syringe, add the electrolytes to your horse’s feed, or add the electrolytes to their water. Each way works equally as well, just figure out what your horse prefers to ensure they are consuming the added electrolytes.  Horse Sweat Is A Good Thing  Often times you hear the phrase “no sweat” when people are referring to something that isn’t a problem. When it comes to horses, no sweat is a big problem. During a hot, muggy day it isn’t uncommon to see horses drenching in sweat when doing nothing more strenuous than simply grazing in the field. Although they may look uncomfortable, these sweaty horses are far morecomfortable than their non-sweating counterparts, as sweating helps regulate body temperature.  Anhidrosis in horses is the partial or total inability to sweat—and is a problem that can be potentially life-threatening. When a horse is unable to sweat, he is unable to keep his internal organs and brain from overheating. Unfortunately, no one knows what causes this condition and it can affect any breed, though it is most commonly seen in the Gulf Coast states including Florida and Louisiana.  Signs Of Equine Anhidrosis  panting  poor tolerance to exercise  dry hair coat  hair loss (especially around the face and a reduction of sweat)  Immediately contact your equine veterinarian if you think your horse may be experiencing anhidrosis. While there is no cure, you can manage a non sweater in a variety of ways. You can relocate your horse during the summer months, limit physical activity, or install barn fans and misters.  Adjust Your Horse Care Schedule  When we hit the beach this summer, we are often reminded to avoid the hottest part of the day, typically 11 am to 3 pm, and apply ample sunscreen. This same rule should apply when trying to determine when to exercise your horse during the summer to try and avoid the heat of the day. When possible try to ride either in the morning or late evening, depending on what works best for your schedule.  In addition to changing the hours at which you ride, change the duration of your ride. A short workout in hot, humid conditions is the same as a longer workout in more pleasant weather, in terms of stress placed on the horse. Take plenty of rest breaks, to help your horse cool down during your exercise session.  After you finish exercising your horse, don’t just drop him off in his stall like a hot potato. Take your time and properly cool him off. Take him for an extended walk, hose him off and brush the water off scraping the water off to speed up the cooling process or put him in front of a fan.  Trailering Your Horse In The Heat  When competing this summer, not only do you need to think about how you will perform your best when you arrive at the show, you need to come up with a plan for how you will safely get your horse to the competition. The heat and humidity of the summer can create oven-like conditions in your trailer. So what can you do?  If you don’t currently own a trailer, consider buying a “cool” trailer to ship your horse(s) in. Studies show that dark exterior colored trailers can be 20-30° hotter inside than trailers that are white or silver in color.  Look for trailers that have large windows for maximum airflow and ceiling roof vents to draw air into the trailer. If possible, take a test ride in the trailer yourself to see what the airflow and temperature conditions are like when temperatures rise.  Even when the weather is cool and humidity is low, traveling is work for a horse. Riding in a trailer can fatigue a horse as they constantly have to work to balance themselves in the moving trailer. Add in warm temperatures and you can easily have a horse that arrives to its destination dehydrated and fatigued.  To minimize fatigue, alter your travel schedule and transport your horse either in the evening or early in the morning, whatever is the coolest part of the day. Before putting your horse on the trailer make sure you have opened all the windows and air vents to get cool air circulating prior to loading. If you have fans on you trailer, turn them on as well.  To minimize the impact of heat coming up from the road, place rubber mats on your trailer floor or bed the trailer down with shavings. Not only does heat come from the sun beating down on the trailer, but it also comes up from the black asphalt the trailer is riding on.  Hose your horse off prior to loading, in an attempt to keep them cool.   By modifying your trailering routine you will be able to ensure your horse travels as comfortable as possible regardless of the weather.  Barn Fan Safety  Each summer horse owners everywhere put fans up in their barns to help cool their horses off as the temperatures rise. However, not all fans are appropriate for barn use. Most horse owners run out to their nearest hardware or discount store to stock up on box fans for their barn.  Before you follow suit, make sure you are buying a fan that is designed for agricultural use and not a box fan designed to be used indoors in a residential situation. Fans designed for agricultural use have motors sealed up to prevent dust and dirt from interfering with the motor and starting a fire. In addition to having unsealed motors, inexpensive box fans also have light weight cords which can eventually expose their wiring over time.  Barn fires are caused every year from faulty fans and improper installation of fans. To prevent the potential for fires, in addition to only using agricultural fans in the barn, only run fans when there are people in the barn. Turn fans off at night, most of the time barns are reasonably comfortable at night if you can open up windows and doors in the barn. Vacuum or blow off dust that accumulates around the fans that are placed on or in your stalls.  When installing fans, make sure you keep the cords out of the horses’ reach. One bite to a cord can cause a short circuit and potential fire. Remember horses aren’t the only ones to potentially bite the cords, raccoons and mice can also interfere with your cords. Always unplug the fans when not in use!  Another option when it comes to cooling down your barn is to get two large agricultural use-approved floor fans and put them at either end of your barn aisle. These large high-power fans do a great job of circulating air throughout the barn during the day.  Enjoy Your Summer  Summer doesn’t have to bring your equestrian activities to a halt. By changing both you and your horse’s riding routine you can both enjoy your summer while staying healthy and competitive. When in doubt about whether to ride or go to the pool when temperatures are scorching, play it safe and go for a dip.   Reprinted courtesy of Kentucky Equine Research. Kentucky Equine Research is an international equine nutrition, research, and consultation company serving horse owners and the feed industry. Our goals are to advance the industry's knowledge of equine nutrition and exercise physiology, apply that knowledge to produce healthier, more athletic horses, and support the nutritional care of all horses throughout their lives. Learn more at https://ker.com      Shop Electrolytes... [Read more]

Keeping Your Horse Healthy

Author: Michelle Jennings, The Mill Equine Nutritionist   Reduce Parasite Reproduction and Contamination of the Environment by Creating a Deworming Program.   The Problem: Parasites are becoming resistant to current deworming products. This causes de-worming products to be less effective. Horse health can be adversely affected by a heavy parasite burden (colic, chronic coughing, poor keeper, poor performance, unthrifty, internal organ damages, etc.).   How Has This Happened? Overuse of deworming products Inappropriate use of deworming products Not knowing what parasites were present when deworming Deworming according to the calendar Treating all horses the same when deworming Many other factors affecting grazing practices and pasture management These are just a few of the major contributing factors.   What Can We Do? Performing fecal egg counts on a regular basis and tailoring your deworming program based on these results is the single most important thing you can do to improve your parasite control strategy. Treat with the right drug, at the right dose, at the right time, in the right horse.   There are Three Classes of Dewormers:  Benzimidazoles (Fenbendazole, Oxibendazole) Pyrantel (Strongid) Macrocyclic lactones (Ivermectin, Moxidectin)         Make Sure the Proper Dose is Given Here is a Way to Estimate your Horse’s Weight   Measure heart girth (directly behind elbow) Measure body length (from point of shoulder to point of buttocks) girth X girth X length ÷330 = body weight Consult your veterinarian if there are any questions concerning your horse’s fecal egg count results and recommendations about your deworming program.  _______________________________________________________________   Balancing the Equine Diet  Based on Forage Quality  Testing your hay will help you to know what to put into your feed bucket. All hay is not created equal and will often vary in nutrients depending upon when it is cut, the weather, the soil conditions, and differences in fields. Hay analysis can give us specific nutrient values to work with and help us better balance the horse’s diet. Testing will allow us to understand the overall quality of the hay and how it fits into the total diet.   Balancing a Horse’s Diet is Generally Done in the Following Order: Digestible Energy (DE) Protein Minerals & Vitamins Balancing DE in the Equine Diet We must remember that calorie recommendations are just that – each horse is an individual and we need to feed them according to their body condition. I have included the calorie requirements below. These calorie requirements are designed for the horse’s total diet. We need to keep in mind that when looking at calories for the horse it is important to always keep age, work level, and breed in mind.   Daily Digestible Energy Requirements for the Average 1,100 lb. Horse: Maintenance Horse – 16,500 kcal/day Gestation – Final Trimester – 21,000 kcal/day Lactation – 1stMonth – 32,000 kcal/day Heavy Work – 27,000 kcal/day Moderate Work – 23,000 kcal/day   Here is a Quick Example of Balancing Forage DE in the Diet: 1,100 – Horse in moderate work requires – 23,000 kcal/day Average “Grass Hay” contains – 909 kcal/lb The horse will eat 1.5 -2% of Body Weight a day in forage or between 16.5 -22 lbs. of hay/day 1100 x 1.5% (or .015) = 16.5 lbs  hay fed 16.5 lbs hay x 909 Kcal/lb = 14,998 Kcal/day from hay (22 lbs = 19,998 Kcal) To meet energy requirements, the horse would need to consume 23.5 lbs of hay/day This horse will not receive enough calories from hay alone.  This does not include protein, vitamins, or minerals. In this example, it would be necessary to supplement this horse's diet with grain/concentrates to meet calorie requirements.   Balancing Protein in Diet When balancing protein it is important to balance the total diet, not just the protein in your forage or grain concentrate. While balancing for total protein in the diet is important, it is really the amino acids that the horse requires. Amino acids are essential protein building blocks for nutrient absorption and utilization. It is important to check your feed tag for lysine and methionine as they are the first 2 limiting amino acids, which help to ensure good hoof quality, muscle maintenance and repair, hair coat, and overall topline condition.   Here is a Simple Calculation to Determine the Overall Total Protein in Your Horse’s Diet: (LBS of Hay x % of Protein) + ( LBS of Grain x % of Protein) )/Total LBS fed ( hay + grain) = Protein in TOTAL DIET   Equine Protein Recommendations in the TOTAL Diet: Foals 16%-18% Weanlings 14%-16% Yearlings 12%-14% Mature Horse 10%- 12% Lactating Mare 12%-14%   Example in a Yearling Diet: Protein requirements – 12%-14% 1-2% body weight in Hay – 8-16 LBS/day Average Grass Hay – 10.8% protein Grain – 4LBS/day of a 12% Concentrate ( (16LBS x10.8) + (4LBS x 12%)/(16+4) = 11.04% ( this diet is deficient in protein) Need to increase the diet’s concentrate   Balancing Minerals & Vitamins   Horses that are fed forage only diets ( hay & pasture) are almost always found to be deficient in the recommended minerals and vitamins.  Most forages have significant variations in their vitamin and mineral content leaving horses with the same inconsistency in their total diet. These deficiencies will typically manifest themselves over time into poor hair and hoof quality, as well as general lack of condition in the horse. These visible signs might be good indications that your horse has a mineral or vitamin deficiency or imbalance within their diet, but sometimes deficiency can go unnoticed for months or even years. Over time, deficiencies that are not addressed can cause your horse to be more susceptible to serious diseases, health conditions, and decreased longevity. It is very important to remember not to rely on just forage to ensure a balanced diet for your horse. All horses require a concentrate or a supplement in addition to their hay. Interesting Facts   20% of the horses harbor 80% of the parasites       Deworming according to the calendar encourages parasite resistance Not all horses are equally susceptible to parasite infection Removing feces from the environment before eggs become infective provides parasite control that is superior to deworming New additions to a herd can introduce resistant strongyles to a previously “clean” population More than 150 different parasites can infect horses (only a small number pose a real problem for horses) The most important parasites (the big 4) to target are roundworms, large and small strongyles, and tapeworms Younger horses are more prone to problems associated with parasites and should be treated differently than adult horses The active ingredient in dewormers influences the interval between deworming times Horses pastured with donkeys are more likely to harbor lungworms and should be treated accordingly Shop our Equine products HERE!... [Read more]

The Secret to Cold Weather Hydration

The temperature of water is key when encouraging horses to stay hydrated in cold weather. Published 1/4/2023 by the Editors of Equus Studies at New Bolton Center in the late 1990s published results from two crossover trials on offering warm water to 14 pony stallions stabled in a barn with individual tie-stalls in the winter, when ambient air temperature in the barn ranged from 19° to 41° Fahrenheit. The methods compared using continuous bucket heaters and offering warm water twice a day at feeding times. Both strategies were effective in increasing water intake. By increasing water intake during cold snaps, the risk of colic is greatly reduced. Read more HERE... [Read more]

Winter Horse Care Tips for Owners

Horses can live outside in comfort year-round with a few amenities provided by their owners. Winter horse care requires: Feed modifications Attention to detail Mud and ice management Shelter from the elements Read More Here Posted by The Kentucky Horse Council... [Read more]

Feeding Mares in Late Gestation: Four Tactics for Success

Pregnant mares require special nutritional attention to ensure the maintenance of their own health and body condition along with the proper growth of the developing fetus. In the first four months of gestation, not much dietary change is needed. However, as pregnancy advances, increases in energy, nutrients, and water are all necessary. The four tactics promoted by Kentucky Equine Research include: Feed, but don’t overfeed or underfeed Avoid tall fescue grass Vitamin and mineral balance Take care of the gut Read More Here... [Read more]

Hay Alternatives

Photo courtesy - University of Kentucky   Hay Alternatives can come in very handy to supplement or complete your horse’s diet. But when are they necessary and how do you incorporate them into your feeding program?    Pellets - Alfalfa - Cubes - Grass - Chopped Forage - Safe Starch -Timothy      It is easy to get bogged down by all the options out there. Knowing if or when alternatives are desirable and which option may be best suited for your horse can get downright confusing. There are horses with bad dentition, malnourished horses that are being brought back to better health, and horses that need a little extra gut fill or a little more fiber but do not need additional feed. There are years when your hay load for the winter did not test as well as you had expected and there are times when hay is simply hard to come by. These are all common situations where hay alternatives can be helpful.   First, horses were designed to be grazers. Before horses were domesticated, how did they survive? What did they eat? Their digestive systems are designed to eat small, frequent meals filled with a lot of fiber which creates constant movement of feedstuff through the gut. They were created to be free-range, herd animals that spend their days grazing and moving about in search of the best forage. The continuous movement and slow, steady gut fill are vitally important to their overall health and wellbeing. Research has shown that horses should consume 1.5%-3% of their body weight in forage a day, thus making forage the foundation and biggest staple of a horse’s diet.   In modern times, most horses do not have the freedom to roam wherever they please in search of the best grazing grounds. Instead, they live in stalls and/or small paddocks. Some may have turnout in a large pasture for a few hours or even the entire day. Others have the option to live outdoors, however, the boundaries of their paddock or pasture limits them in the fresh forage they can consume. Consequently, due to limited fresh forage options in their enclosures or for other health reasons, we supplement with hay or other forage alternatives. While each horse and situation can require a different approach, the traditional line of thinking is based on the length of the stem. When an abundance of fresh pasture forage is not available or not conducive to the horse’s individual health situation, the next option most owners rely on is baled hay; followed by chopped forage, then hay cubes and lastly hay pellets. This is all according to the length of the forage material.   Fresh Pasture > Baled Hay > Chopped Forage > Hay Cubes > Hay Pellets    You may have heard about the benefits of ‘long-stemmed’ hay. The ‘long stem’ (meaning 2 or more inches in stem length) is important for several reasons.  1. Long-stemmed hay requires more chewing  More chewing simulates the horse’s natural behavior of grazing  Since the horse has an outlet for this natural grazing behavior, he/she is less likely to develop bad habits such as:          a. wood chewing        b. wind sucking              c. eating the bedding                            d. stall pacing or weaving 2.  More chewing produces more saliva. Saliva contains high levels of calcium and sodium bicarbonate which provide an added buffer against gastric acid in the stomach (helping to reduce the risk of gastric ulcers). Long-stemmed hay offers 2-plus inches of fibrous stem material to go through the digestive tract      2-plus inches of fibrous stem material in the stomach helps to create a mat, if you will, to help absorb and buffer acid (helping to reduce the risk of gastric ulcers)      2-plus inches of fibrous stem material is important for the beneficial microbes in the gut. They are more easily able to attach themselves to the longer stemmed material which, therefore, improves the horse’s ability to digest their food      2-plus inches of fibrous stem material also slows rate of passage of feed through the gut. When fed prior to grains the slowing of the feed material through the digestive tract allows the horse more time to better digest and absorb nutrients from their feed.  Fresh Pasture > Baled Hay > Chopped Forage > Hay Cubes > Hay Pellets    Each of the above listed feedstuffs has reduced length of chop. The shorter-stemmed feeds forfeit the above benefits of long-stemmed forage. So, why would anyone use anything but baled hay when adequate fresh forage is not available or not conducive to the horse’s individual health situation? There are many reasons why that are due to individual health situations. Ideally, we try to keep the least processed and longest stemmed forages in the feeding program to minimize health complications, however, there are situations where horses need a fine and highly processed forage substitute in the diet. These situations are more challenging and require more monitoring for best success.  If you have questions about which hay alternative may be the best option for your horse, please contact one of our Equine Specialists at The Mill.... [Read more]

The Hay Shed - What you need to know: Alfalfa vs Grass Hay

Most horse owners understand that horses are designed to be grazing animals. Which means that in order for horses to maintain a healthy gut, small amounts of feedstuff available continuously throughout the day and night are necessary. To that point, forage (as in grass, hay or hay alternatives) is the substance implied for grazer consumption. The average horse should consume about 2% of its body weight in forage per day. Other sources, such as bagged grains/feed and supplements are added to the diet to make up for nutrition requirements not already met by the forage. So far, most horse owners would agree with these facts. Once we begin discussing the differences of hay, however, is when many varying opinions and myths come to light.  Grass hay is, arguably, the most common version of forage following fresh pasture grass. Grass hay comes in a variety of options with timothy and orchard grass being the most typical.  Relatively speaking, grass hay is less nutrient dense than alfalfa making it an excellent option for gut fill.  As we know, horses need to have a slow and continual consumption of forage going thru their digestive system in order to maintain a happy and healthy gut.  However, while they need to be continuously nibbling on forage, high nutrient levels can often lead to weight gain.  So there is a balancing act to contend with. While grass hay may be lower in protein, calcium, and overall calories than alfalfa, it does tend to be higher in sugars and starches.  So even though it is an excellent option for the vast majority of horses, those dealing with metabolic issues may find grass hay to be problematic.  TIMOTHY VS ORCHARD What are some basic things that you should know about the differences  between timothy grass and orchard grass?  Timothy grass typically offers a low to moderate calorie content, a moderate protein level and a balanced calcium to phosphorus ratio.  Orchard grass typically offers the same balanced calcium to phosphorus ratio; plus a higher calorie content and protein level. Timothy was one of the first grasses to be cultivated into hay for horses and therefore has a long and trusted reputation among horse owners.  The biggest drawback to timothy grass hay is its availability.  Generally speaking, timothy grass takes longer to grow (typically only yielding 2 cuttings per year) and requires a substantial amount of moisture.  In comparison, orchard grass has a faster grow rate, typically yielding 3 cuttings per year and is capable of growing in moderately dry environments.  Alfalfa Legumes, such as alfalfa hay, tend to get a bad reputation for  making a horsehot, being too ‘rich’ and, therefore, potentially dangerous to feed.  There are certainly reasons in which these overall perceptions were formed but as a broad statement are not, all together, accurate.  As a general concept, sugars and starches are what makes a horse ‘hot’…not fiber and not protein.  Think of yourself or a human child.  If you eat a snickers bar or something with a high level of sugar, what happens?  Do you get that immediate pick-me-up?  Do you dread the moment that surge passes, bringing with it the inevitable drop in energy?  Does the child begin to bounce off the walls and then crash a while later?  Now, what happens if you eat a big salad?  How about a steak?  Do you or the child get that same kind of insulin spike?  How about that rollercoaster pick-me-up and drop off?  Nope, you sure don’t.  That same concept should be applied when considering the correct forage for your horse. Did you know that alfalfa hay tends to be lower in sugar and starches than grass hay?  Thus, making it an ideal forage solution for horses with specific metabolic disorders, such as: Insulin Resistance Cushings PSSM (Polysaccharide Storage Myopathy) Equine Metabolic Syndrome Laminitis Sounds backwards to the overwhelming assumption that alfalfa is too ‘rich’ for some horses, let alone those suffering with metabolic conditions, right?  The flipside to alfalfa is that it also tends to be higher in caloric values and overall nutrition.  Alfalfa is an excellent option for a horse that needs to gain weight; that broodmare during her last 3 months of pregnancy; and the old, finicky, Cushings pony that is getting a little ribby.  But, what about the already heavy-set Quarter Horse that has been diagnosed with PSSM? He needs the low sugar and starch aspect but doesn’t need the added calories.  So, now what? This is where so many of the opinions and myths about hay options are formed and spread. It is so important to understand that there is no 100%, concrete, blanket answer, formula or equation.  Each horse is an individual with specific genetic make-up, age, activity level and overall health.  The same horse owned by one owner at the age of 4, living on the east coast in heavy training…will have completely different nutrition requirements when he is 17 years old and living out his retirement on the west coast.  Similarly, two senior horses of the same breed and activity level can have differing nutrition requirements. There are so many varying factors to consider. Alfalfa can also present a calcium: phosphorus imbalance.  The ideal calcium: phosphorus ratio in horses is about 2:1, respectively.  Calcium in alfalfa can be up to 3x higher than in grass hay.  The phosphorus levels are about the same in alfalfa as they are in grass hay.  This is something you want to consider when choosing the appropriate forage for your horse.  On a positive note, the added calcium in the alfalfa has been proven to aid in the prevention and treatment of gastric ulcers.  Even a pound or two of alfalfa (especially beneficial if long-stemmed alfalfa) is advantageous to give horses prior to a workout.  The long stem of the alfalfa helps to create a ‘basket’, if you will, in the stomach.  That ‘basket’ helps to keep the digestive juices in the stomach from sloshing around during physical activity.  The calcium from the alfalfa has also been proven to help buffer excess stomach acid, again making it a beneficial tool in preventing gastric ulcers.  As you can see, there are so many varying factors that play a role in the effectiveness of forage in your horse’s diet.  Not only is every horse different in their individual nutritional needs based on genetics, age, activity level and overall health; each different forage option has its own set of benefits and drawbacks to carefully compare and weigh. Connecting with an Equine Nutritionist can be incredibly advantageous in choosing the right forage and balancing the diet for your individual horse and his specific needs.  With that being said, hopefully this blog has, at least, helped to differentiate some common facts from opinions and myths and brought to light some of the essential information when comparing alfalfa and grass hay.... [Read more]

Beat the Bugs

Here are a few quick tips to help you beat the bugs and have a great summer!   1. BEAT THE BUGS FROM THE INSIDE OUT The first step in beating the bugs is using an insect control supplement. These supplements are designed to stop the life cycle of flies, thus reducing the population of house and stable flies in and around your barn. Simplifly is one of my favorite Feed-Thru Fly Control Products that I highly recommend. SimpliFly with LarvaStop is a very palatable pelleted additive. The LarvaStop breaks the life cycle of flies by preventing the formation of fly larvae’s exoskeletons when they molt. It is most effective when feed to ALL horses in the barn/on the property. Stop the flies before they start with feed through fly control Contains no organophosphates and can be used as part of an integrated pest management program Prevents the formation of fly exoskeletons For best results provide to all horse on the property and start prior to the fly season 2. SPRAY THE FLIES AWAY Fly spray is a key component to protecting your horse against flies. There are many different types of sprays on the market to choose from and the fine print on the bottles can be confusing. When choosing the right fly spray for your horse, consider the following label and active ingredient information. Pyrethrins: Pyrethrins are organic compounds that are derived from chrysanthemum flowers and are biodegradable. They are broken down rapidly by sunlight, so synergists—usually Piperonyl butoxide and/or Butoxypolypropylene glycol—are often added to protect and extend the effectiveness of the formula. Pyrethrins act on the nervous systems of insects, which makes it an insecticide. (Plant Based & All Natural) Absorbine UltraShield GREEN EquiSect Flysect Citronella Nature’s Defense Permethrin: Permethrins are synthetic forms of pyrethrins used to control a variety of external parasites, including ticks, lice, gnats, and flies. It is used as an external insecticide – sprays, wipes and spot-on’s that may be applied directly to the animal, or in more concentrated formulations designed as premises sprays. It acts upon the insect’s nervous system but is safe in most mammals. (Cats are a significant exception to this rule. Permethrin is also toxic to birds, fish, and beneficial insects such as honeybees.) Water Based - Daily Protection Bronco Equi-Spot Spot-On Flysect Super C Flysect Super 7 Mosquito Halt Permethrin 10 Concentrate and Pour-On Repel-X Wipe Pyrethroids: Pyrethroids are also synthetic forms of pyrethrins. The most common pyrethroids are permethrin, cypermethrin and resmethrin. Pyrethroids are not as easily broken down by sunlight, so they can remain effective for several days. Both pyrethrins and pyrethroids have a long track record for effectiveness and animal safety on horses and dogs. (Oil Based - Long Lasting & Sweat Resistant)   Absorbine UltraShield Endure Pyranha Tri-Tec 14  3. PHYSICAL BARRIER - COVER UP YOUR HORSE During fly season another great line of defense in fly protection is using a mask, fly sheet and fly boots. This gives your horse a physical barrier against biting pests. They are not just great for protection from bugs, but many of these products are great for blocking the sun as well as the UV rays.  Fly masks come in many styles – with or without ears and/or with or without nose pieces Fly sheets also come in many styles as well as different types of materials Fly boots are light-weight and help from keeping a horse from stomping the hard ground... [Read more]

Define a “Senior” Horse

Define a ‘Senior’ horse. What threshold must a horse cross to earn the title of ‘Senior’? Is it an age? Is it a state of mind? How about activity level? As you think about all the senior horses you have known in your lifetime, can you put your finger on one solid definition that fully represents all the horses bearing the ‘Senior’ title? It’s hard, isn’t it? We’ve all known 17-year-olds that were sporting the sway back, were crippled, could only eat feed and mashes formulated for the geriatric and/or were just basically rendered useless in regard to a job and so were living out theirretirement as a pasture pet. On the flip side, we’ve all met and been astounded by those horses that were still competing and dominating in the athletic arena, looked like a million bucks, ate like a champ…but were 22 years old. So…how DO you define a ‘Senior’ horse? Genetics Injuries Use/Job Proper tack Equipment Shoeing Nutritional, medical and preventative care throughout their lives. And, just like us, all these contributing factors play a major roll in how gracefully one ages. Consequently, trying to define that one moving target threshold at which all horses can forever more be graced with the title of ‘Senior’ is unrealistic. A horse does not become ‘senior’ by reaching a specific age. They don’t become a senior when they decide to back off on their mischievous behavior or robust physical antics. The simplest way to define or categorize a ‘senior’ horse is by their ability to utilize their feed. As horses age, just like us, their bodies deteriorate.      1) Their teeth wear out, making proper chewing difficult.      2) Their digestive systems don’t break down the food as effectively,                 causing them to miss out on utilizing adequate nutrients. These are two major factors that can have a significant impact on the horse’s body condition. When this happens, you may start to see a decrease in weight and rib coverage because they are not getting enough calories. Their hair coat can become dull. Their feet can fall apart, and they can start losing their topline. Enter sway back. This happens largely because they are either not getting enough nutrients and/or are not able to fully utilize the nutrients. This can include basic calories, protein/essential amino acids, and vitamins/minerals from their forage, feed and supplements. The image you may have in your head right now of this horse seemingly succumbing to old age is probably the exact image that comes to mind when you think of ‘senior’ horses. Age takes its toll on all of us, and as previously discussed, there are many factors that contribute to how quickly and/or how gracefully we all age. While there are several factors that are out of our control, the one thing we CAN do to help support our aged or senior horses is through nutrition. Has your horse already been graced with the title of ‘senior’; or you are in earlier stages, hoping to preserve your aged horse from crossing that deterioration threshold? Regardless of what stage your horse is in there are several things we can do nutritionally to help support them through the aging process. If you have any questions or would like some assistance in developing ways to better support your aged horse thru nutrition, please contact one of our Equine Experts. From various feed options, supplements, hay and hay alternatives we are here to help you find the options that will best suit your horse’s specific needs.... [Read more]

Help Your Horse Weather Winter

Remember these three simple things to help your horse maintain his weight and health this season. Hay. Grain. Concentrate, sweet, and other prepared feeds. Bran. Oils. Vitamins and minerals. Supplements. Keeping up with the array of rations you can feed your horse can make your head spin. Indeed, nutrition is a complicated subject. But our sources say that by monitoring just three things, you can keep most horses in top condition throughout the cold winter months. Those three simple things? Feed type, water, and body condition score. Read more here.... [Read more]

Lush Grass: Good or Bad?

Horse owners and farm managers frequently use the word “lush” to describe the state of pasture forage as it begins to grow rapidly in the spring. Just exactly what does “lush” mean? Is this new grass good for horses, or dangerous for them to graze? Read more here.... [Read more]

Horse Management for the Spring Season

Do you ride all winter, no matter how deep the snow gets, or do you hang up your saddle at the first cool in autumn? Do you pull your horse’s shoes, blanket him, or keep him in the barn during the cold months? Do you cut his grain ration when he’s not working, or feed more hay to keep him warm? If the winter season has involved any modifications in your horse’s exercise level or feeding plan, you will need to consider the following points as you bring the horse back into work in the spring. Read more here.... [Read more]

Why do a Fecal Egg Count?

The Problem:  Parasites are becoming resistant to current de-worming products.  De-worming products are becoming less effective because of this.    Horse’s health can be adversely affected with a heavy parasite burden (colic, chronic coughing, poor keeper, poor performance, unthrifty, internal organ damages, etc…)      How has this happen?  Over use of de-worming products  Inappropriate use of de-worming products  Not knowing what parasites were present when de-worming  Deworming according to the calendar  Treating all horses the same when de-worming   Many other factors affecting grazing practices and pasture management  THESE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE MAJOR CONTRIBUTING FACTORS (THERE ARE MANY MORE)    What can we do?  Performing fecal egg counts on a regular basis and tailoring your deworming program based on these results is the single most important thing you can do to improve your parasite control strategy.  Treat with the right drug, at the right dose, at the right time, in the right horse.     What is the ultimate goal of any deworming program?  To reduce parasite reproduction and contamination of the environment    Interesting facts  20% of the horses harbor 80% of the parasites  Worming according to the calendar encourages parasite resistance.  Not all horses are equally susceptible to parasite infection.  Removing feces from the environment before eggs become infective provides parasite control that is superior to deworming.  New additions to a herd can introduce resistant strongyles to a previously “clean” population.  More than 150 different parasites can infect horses (only a small number pose a real problem for horses)  The most important parasites (the big 4) to target are round worms, Large and small strongyles and tape worms.  Younger horses are more prone to problems associated with parasites and should be treated differently than adult horses.  The active ingredient in dewormers influences the interval between deworming times  Horses pastured with donkeys are more likely to harbor lung worms and should be treated accordingly    Pasture management practices that may help.  Rotate pastures  Do not overcrowd pastures  Plant annuals such as winter wheat  Rotate livestock species in pastures when possible  Quarantine and deworm all new horses prior to introduction to the heard  Remove feces from grazing areas on a regular basis (every few days)  Avoid feeding from the ground  Harrow pastures only when climatic conditions (hot summer temps) will kill the developing parasites   Leave freshly dragged pastures empty for several weeks to allow the weather to kill the maximum number of parasites.    There are three classes of dewormers  Benzimidazoles (Fenbendazole, Oxibendazole)  Pyrantel (Strongid)  Macrocyclic lactones (Ivermectin, Moxidectin)     How to make sure the proper dose is given  Here is a way to estimate your horse’s weight  Measure heart girth (directly behind elbow)  Measure body length (from point of shoulder to point of buttocks)  girth X girth X length ÷ 330 = body weight     Consult your veterinarian if there are any questions concerning your horse’s fecal egg count results and recommendations about your deworming program      Egg reappearance period  Moxidectin- 12 weeks  Ivermectin- 8 weeks  Pyrantel- 4 to 6 weeks  Benzimidazoles- 4 weeks    Classifications of shedders  Low egg shedders <200 eggs per gram of feces deworm?  no  Moderate egg shedders 200 to 500 eggs per gram of feces deworm?  maybe  High egg shedders >500 eggs per gram of feces deworm?  Yes... [Read more]

How to Adjust Horses to the Changing Seasons

Changing seasons can bring about potential problems for horses and their owners. Pasture quality changes with every season, but the changes from summer to fall are especially significant. During the fall, there are often warm sunny days and cool nights. Grasses manufacture sugars (through photosynthesis) during these warm sunny days, but will not use the sugars to fuel growth during the night if the temperature is too cold. This leads to increased concentration of stored sugars in the plants, and may increase the risk of digestive upset or laminitis in some horses. Horses at most risk are those that are significantly overweight or those that have trouble managing normal blood sugar levels and are very sensitive to starch and sugar content in the diet. As we move from fall to winter, hay replaces pasture as the primary forage for many horses, which represents a major change in diet. Horse owners are usually very careful about changing grains in their horse’s diet but may not think about changing from pasture to hay or changing hay supplies as being a big change in the diet. However, a change in hay is one of the largest risk factors for colic reported in one study from Texas A&M. This represented everything from changing type of hay to just getting a new supply of the same type of hay. Ideally, all major dietary changes should be made gradually to decrease the risk of digestive upset. Changing seasons also means drastic swings in weather conditions and temperature fluctuations. While not scientifically proven, many horse owners and veterinarians believe that there is an association between changes in barometric pressure and incidences of colic episodes in horses. Also, a dramatic drop in ambient temperature often cause a horse to drink less water, while at the same time the horse owners may be increasing the amount of hay to help horses stay warm. More hay and less water consumption together may contribute to an increased risk of impaction colic. Horses should be fed good quality hay to maximize nutrition and minimize potential digestive problems. To identify good quality hay of any variety, look for high leaf to stem ratio, small diameter stems, few seed heads or blooms, fresh smell and appearance, cleanliness, and color (faded, yellow or brown color may indicate aged hay or poor storage conditions). The maturity of the plant at time of harvest determines the hay quality more than any other factor. Young, leafy, immature plants contain more protein, calories and minerals than overly mature plants. Also, as a plant matures it contains more indigestible fiber (lignin) and therefore is less digestible, which reduces nutrient availability. To ensure high quality hay, plants should be harvested at the proper stage of maturity. Hay or pasture represents 70% or more of the total ration for many horses, so quality of hay or pasture has a big impact on the nutritional status of the horse. Even high quality hay will be less digestible and have lower protein, vitamin and calorie content than the forage horses will graze in good quality pastures. When forage quality declines, the grain ration must make up the deficit. This may simply mean feeding a couple pounds more of grain per day to maintain the same level of condition. But, in some cases, lower quality forage may create the need to choose a grain ration with a higher nutritional balance than was needed when the same horse was eating good green pasture grass. Horses with high nutritional requirements such as very young horses, very hard working horses or broodmares in late gestation or lactation will benefit most from a higher quality grain ration when eating hay instead of pasture. Aged horses, especially those with dental or digestive problems may do well grazing green pasture but often lose a significant amount of condition in the fall and winter when the diet changes to hay. Pasture forages are generally easier to chew and digest and horses will selectively graze the highest quality plants which provide a very different diet than hay. Purina Equine Senior is a great option for these situations, providing excellent quality hay and fiber, with proper nutritional balance, in an easy-to-chew pellet. Fall is a season of transition and an important time to evaluate the quality of forage available for your horse and determine whether the grain ration is adequate to meet your horse’s nutrient requirements. When winter arrives, horses must be in good condition to comfortably weather colder temperatures. Adjusting grain rations in the early fall will prevent weight loss due to the lower quality forage. Or, if horses need to gain weight, there is still time to safely put 50 – 60 lbs of weight on a thin horse before the cold weather really sets in. Source material for this blog article was provided by Purina Mils, Inc. © 2009... [Read more]

How to Find the Balance between Forage and Feed for Your Horses while Avoiding Obesity

How do you provide proper nutrition to them without an overabundance of calories? You can restrict time spent grazing to a few hours per day or reduce the amount of hay offered to 1.5 – 2% of their body weight and this will certainly help control calorie intake, but sometimes these horses will still gain weight if fed the minimum 3.5 – 4 lbs of feed. In these cases, feeding only 1 – 2 lbs of a formulated feed that was designed to be fed at higher feeding rates can result in nutritional deficiencies in the diet. You don’t want to increase the amount of feed and end up with an obese horse, so what do you do? This is where “forage balancers” or “ration balancers”, such as Purina Nature’s Essentials Enrich 12™ and Enrich 32™fit very nicely. These products are formulated to be low in calories and to meet protein, vitamin and mineral requirements in 1 – 2 lbs per day for 1000 – 1200 lb horses. With these two products, three eight ounce cups equals one pound. They are a great option for horses that maintain good condition on hay or pasture alone and just don’t need the calories that would come with 3.5 lbs or more of a formulated feed. The Nature’s Essentials product you choose depends on the type and quality of forage available. Enrich 12™ works well for mature horses eating green pasture or high quality hay such as alfalfa, while Enrich 32™ has a higher protein content to better fortify a typical grass hay diet or for horses that are still growing and need a higher protein balance to better support growth and development. Horses that are working hard, are lactating or are eating average quality hay will still benefit from a well formulated feed product fed at the recommended feeding rates. But for those less active horses, easy-keepers, or those with access to exceptional quality forage, you may want to look at Purina Nature’s Essentials Enrich 12™or Enrich 32™ to meet nutrient requirements without adding unnecessary calories. Source material for this blog article was provided by Purina Mils, Inc. © 2008... [Read more]

Feeding Horses During Reduced Work-

Here are tips for adjusting your horse’s diet if he’s out of work.  Read more here.... [Read more]

Hay Testing

The summer is winding down and we are all starting to think about Autumn and Winter Preparations. Every fall, The Mill offers complimentary Hay Testing. This year we WILL still be offering the hay testing service but will be executing it little differently to ensure safety and COVID regulation compliance. Hay Testing Options Complimentary Hay Testing - (only available predetermined dates in the fall) Lab Analyzed Hay Testing - (available year round, minimum $40 charge) Differences in Hay Testing Options Complimentary Hay Testing (only available predetermined dates in the fall): A broad overview of the hay to give a baseline in balancing a horse’s diet Offered in house at The Mill Customers will need to: Call either Michelle Jennings or Kelley Nash to arrange for testing Michelle Jennings (410-952-4681) Kelley Nash (443-981-1352) You will be instructed to bring a quart sized, Ziplock bag sample of your hay to The Mill store nearest you on a specific day, as arranged by your conversation with Michelle or Kelley Results, typically, within a week Complimentary = No Charge 😊 Results include: Crude Protein – A very important number to know that is used in balancing the protein aspect of a horses’ diet ADF – (Acid Detergent Fiber) Reveals the DIGESTIBILITY of the hay. Example: Of the hay that the horse actually consumes, what percentage of that hay is the horse able to digest NDF – (Neutral Detergent Fiber) Reveals the CONSUMABILITY of the hay. Example: What percentage of the hay is the horse most likely to eat Equine Digestibility Fiber or kcal/lb – (Digestible Energy) Another very important number to know that is used to balance the calorie aspect of a horses’ diet  Lab Analyzed Hay Testing (available year round, minimum $40 charge): A detailed analysis of the hay for more finetuned and specific diet balancing. Highly recommended if managing horses with metabolic conditions. One of our Equine Specialists will come to your farm and core several bales of hay Samples are sent to an outside laboratory for analysis Results, typically, within 2 weeks $40 Results include: Crude Protein ADF NDF Digestible Energy Complete breakdown of the micronutrients Calcium Phosphorus Magnesium Potassium Sodium Iron Zinc Copper Manganese Molybdenum Nonstructural Carbohydrates – Sugars and Starches are VERY important to be aware of and to manage, especially for horses with metabolic issues or are prone to tying up.... [Read more]
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